The Bib Gourmand award is our way of recognising restaurants that offer good food at a great price. While all Bib Gourmands are unique in style and approach, they share the same spirit of generosity and a commitment to quality cooking. That’s why, in this series, we’re highlighting the MICHELIN Guide Inspectors' Bib of the Month. These restaurants are the bedrock of our selection, providing an affordable dining option that doesn’t skimp on precision, skill or flavour. From cosy pubs to buzzing counters, we’ve got a Bib for you.
This month, we’re putting Bristol’s premier purveyor of plants in the spotlight. A largely vegetarian restaurant in one of the city’s coolest districts, Root is a veg-led powerhouse with a sister restaurant in nearby Wells that also holds a Bib Gourmand. Here’s what one of our Inspectors had to say:
“There are so many things to admire about Root. There’s its quirky location, for a start, occupying a suite of shipping containers on Wapping Wharf – the restaurant hotspot that could not be more ‘Bristol’. Then there’s the electric atmosphere, charming service and, most importantly, the cooking. Delicious vegetables and brilliant value for money are the name of the game here, with a wonderful array of seasonal plant produce heading up the menu while meat and fish play a secondary role. I particularly loved how each ingredient were given the platform to shine, with harmonious combinations making each vibrant dish soar.”
To learn more about the Root philosophy, we spoke to its Head Chef Rob Howell about what makes his kitchen such a success.
What was the idea behind Root? How would you describe your approach to food and cooking?
The original idea behind Root was to change the classic concept of a menu where you have main plates of meat and fish with sides of vegetables, to a menu full of vegetables with a choice of meat and fish on the side as such. That concept still makes up our menus to this day.
We do our best to use a range of local growers and producers throughout the year, making a menu full of super seasonal produce that is treated with care and attention to showcase the produce in the best way possible.
Why did you decide to serve dishes that are predominantly vegetable-centric, even though the restaurant isn’t fully vegetarian?
Through years of working in plenty of restaurants, we realised that such care was put into the sourcing of meat and fish but never the same with vegetables. When we made it our aim to create something special with vegetables, it gave us a whole new approach and love for cooking. It means we can still use and work with quality fish and meat, but it seems a bit more special and not an everyday occurrence.
What price range can customers expect and how are you able to keep your prices affordable?
Our dishes range from snacks or smaller plates at £6 to larger sharing plates for £28-30. Most of our vegetable dishes sit at £9-12. Prices of dishes are a constant battle as we always want to be accessible to as many people as possible but, as we all know, it is never easy. We pride ourselves on great value for money and believe that we offer a great experience and quality for the prices we charge.
For a first-time diner, what is the dish to order at Root?
We always think that Root is best enjoyed as a group; if there are four people and you’re hungry, you can just about order the whole menu and you can see all we have to offer. The stand-out dishes that don’t disappoint usually include a carrot dish of some form, the cheese puffs or the smoked mushroom tartare. Our desserts are not to be missed either – the carrot jam doughnut was always a winner.
Tell us a bit about Root Wells. What DNA does it share with the original Root and how is it different?
Root Wells shares a very similar set-up to the Bristol restaurant. Luckily enough we have already connected with some amazing producers and growers around us which have a heavy influence on our menu. The menu shares the same structure but both Bristol and Wells menus are different which I think is great as the chefs have the chance to have their influence on the menu. The restaurant still has an open kitchen, so you can enjoy seeing the chefs creating the dishes, and it comes with friendly and welcoming service.
Beyond the vegetable-led menu, what steps do you take towards working more sustainably at both restaurants?
We have always pushed to be more sustainable throughout the restaurants, where possible. It’s great that we have teams that share the same values, meaning it is always up for discussion and always improving. We work with growers, meaning most of our produce comes with no packaging which is a massive help. Our drinks suppliers throughout Bristol help because they use large reusable containers for spirts; we have also adopted the same system for vinegars and oils in the kitchen.
Having a menu that is forever changing means it is very easy to never waste food and the whole team pride themselves on these practices. The kitchen itself is relatively basic (in a good way), meaning no sous vide or anything; so single-use plastic isn’t a thing in the kitchen and we stay away from single-use things like j-cloths, piping bags and clingfilm.
Hero Image: © Root/Ed Schofield
Thumbnail Image: © Root/Alexander J Collins
