“A Contre sens” means against the flow, but this establishment is clearly heading in the right direction. Chef Anthony Caillot is pictured in the middle of a herd of cows on his website, a reminder that this farmer’s son continues to forge strong ties with breeders, vegetable and fruit growers and small-scale producers. After stints in star restaurants and luxury hotels, this chef fell head over heels with this traditional house in a discreet street of Caen, where he greets guests simply and generously. Healthy first and foremost, Anthony’s cuisine is perfectly balanced between legibility and audacity. Normandy produce is transcended by high-flying craftsmanship and tiny exotic touches (yuzu, kimchi, ginger): mushrooms in a smoked vegetable stock, shitake, squid and langoustine ravioles; grilled scallops, barbecued cauliflower, mango and pepper condiment; raw and baked pear, honey ganache and hay ice cream…