Tucked next to the steely skeleton of the Williamsburg Bridge, Meadowsweet cuts a stylish industrial figure with its glass-fronted façade, whitewashed brick walls and original mosaic-tiled floors. Leather banquettes line the wall, and pendant bulbs illuminate one of several beautiful oil paintings of a meadow. Inside, the restaurant jumps with Williamsburg’s finest—along with more than a few bridge-hoppers from Manhattan and beyond. And that’s on a slow night.

The fuss is quite merited. Despite ample competition in this section of town, Chef/owner Polo Dobkin and wife, Stephanie Lempert, manage to elevate the kitchen’s dishes into next-level territory, and they do so in a lovely, urbane setting with loads of charm and friendly service.

The inventive American menu gets a lift from Mediterranean accents: fried artichokes served with a tangle of bitter-spicy arugula in a creamy vinaigrette are positively addictive. Crisped black bass with a parsley root velouté sings with a side of green apple cabbage, which is flecked with chunks of smoky bacon. There’s an impressive list of cocktails and wine; not to mention a globetrotting beer selection ranging from Austrian lagers to Japanese ales.