The stuffed crocodile in the window, a souvenir brought back from Egypt by a Napoleonic soldier, underlines the historic character of this iconic Strasbourg establishment, which boasted 3 stars under chef Émile Jung. Following a top to toe refurbishment that has preserved the spirit of the venue, it shines brightly on the culinary scene of Strasbourg. Chef Romain Brillat, former second of Gilles Goujon and a distant relative of Brillat-Savarin, a famous French gourmet, has achieved a balance between classicism and sophistication. Examples include his inventive take on scallops (including the roe and muscle) with black truffles or the more traditional slab of turbot in a crust of breadcrumbs, lemon and herbs. The polished tableside service is a pleasure to behold.