The chef learned at a ryotei how to produce rich flavours by combining ingredients. Having been responsible for the simmered dishes and soups there, he pours his strength into wanmono. His search for ever greater depth of flavour led him to combine first-draught dashi with fish bone broth. The chef’s pride and joy is surinagashi, with a distinct sense of season. The power of dashi makes ingredients all the more impressive. As a counterpoint to the varied tone of the menu, the meal ends simply, with white rice and clear soup.