Advanced bookings, high price tags and dinner-only appear to be the usual foundations for sushiyas these days. Thank goodness then for Chef Yasu Tanaka, who brings his celebrated skills to this casual corner inside the MIA Market in the heart of the Design District. Nigiri is the sole focus of his carte, offered in multiple sets, made with top-quality fish flown in several times a week and adorned with clever garnishes. Exquisite bites, such as a chopped toro with pickled radish hand roll, arrive in a flash so that speedy diners can be out the door in under 20 minutes.
There is no ceremony or show inside this unassuming food hall, but the quality speaks for itself. With neighbors like Bulgari and Armani, perhaps we shouldn’t be too surprised.