This simple wood counter serves some of the area’s better nigiri, right from the corner of a mall in Japantown. Blink and you’ll miss it—Oma is about the size of a kiosk near the Webster Street exit.

Behind the counter, find Chef Wilson Chan deftly slicing each morsel before your eyes, artfully placing it before every guest, piece by piece. Choose from five- eight- or twelve-piece prix-fixe menus to match your appetite and budget, though prices are reasonable for such quality. Clean flavors and rich, silky fish are the hallmarks of dining here. Highlights include a lightly torched wild star butterfish that melts in the mouth, and a delicious handroll combining chopped bluefin tuna balanced with pickled yellow daikon wrapped in crisp nori.