Ever affable and welcoming, Chef Stephen Gillanders seems right at home in his new location in Wicker Park. A single chef’s counter follows the length of this cool, dark room and gives guests a front-row view of the kitchen. The tasting menu is ambitious in its attempt to trot the culinary globe. Filipino, Mexican, Chinese, and Indian influences make their marks on a range of dishes like ocean trout lumpia, seafood ceviche, prawn toast spanakopita, and a scotch egg riff with lamb and tikka masala sauce. Dessert is more reigned in, and a recent finale inspired by breakfast was a notable highlight. The beverage program is equally thoughtful, offering a wealth of cocktail and wine pairings that are not to be missed.