Dartmoor might be best-known for its trademark rocky tors and boulder-studded hills, but this unique landscape also comprises ancient forests, mythical valleys and lush wetlands, as well as fields criss-crossed by dry stone walls and hedgerows teeming with life. The villages dotted in and around the National Park have stayed largely true to their original character and, with a dose of imagination, you can see the drovers' roads being travelled by the smallholders of yesteryear, making their way to the bigger market towns. There's something innately calming about this place, where nature leads the way and modern life continues in a more freeing way.
Join us as we tour this characterful region, exploring its natural wonders by day, then soaking in serene spas before sinking into sumptuous beds at night. Fuel for such a trip comes in the form of hearty meals in welcoming pubs, as well, of course, in a luxurious Michelin-Starred restaurant before heading home.
The Bronze Age Down Tor Stone Row and Circle on Dartmoor's Hingston Hill (© iStock/Artur Niedzwiedz)
The Story of Dartmoor National Park
Named after the River Dart, whose source can be found here, Dartmoor National Park stretches for roughly 20 miles from both north to south and east to west, occupying an area roughly the same size as London. 65% of the park is made up of granite rock, which was formed around 295 million years ago, and its 365 rocky outcrops (tors) and boulder-strewn landscapes give Dartmoor its unique character. 90% of the land is used for farming, so while the park is home to just over 34,000 people, they are easily outnumbered by the 50,000 ponies, sheep and cows who graze here.You might think that it's all about nature here, from the salmon and otters who inhabit the Rivers Dart and Teign to the birds that live in the centuries-old oak trees in the ancient forests, but people have helped shaped the landscape too. With the remains of Stone Age and Bronze Age villages; medieval churches and manor houses; and Victorian quarries, tramways and railway lines all in evidence, the way people have lived and worked on the land have influenced the park's development for the past 10,000 years. While some clues from the past need to be searched for, the mining of tin, copper and iron ores from the mineral-rich land has left more obvious scars across the land.
Dartmoor ponies near Haytor (© iStock/Alphotographic)
The larger towns and villages tend to occupy the outer edges of the moor, with the largest and most famous structure being Dartmoor Prison, which opened in 1809 for prisoners of war and is still in use as a prison today. Head further in and you'll find smaller villages, but it's here that nature really leads the way. There are three main types of land here, all rich and diverse habitats teeming with flora and fauna.
The traditional hay meadows are open, sunny areas dominated by grasses and wildflowers, rare habitats where orchids, bees and butterflies thrive. Then there's the woodlands. The ancient broadleaf woodlands occupy the steep valley sides around the rivers and support rare lichens and nesting birds, and lead down to smaller wet woodlands of willow and alder. Finally, there's the wetlands, which take in bogs, mires and rhos pasture, and include blanket bogs of international importance. Amongst these habitats you'll find carnivorous sundews, sphagnum mosses of varying colours and wading birds here to breed.
The quaint Two Bridges which spans the River Dart deep in Dartmoor National Park (© iStock/paulafrench)
Getting Around
Travelling To Dartmoor
This area is somewhere that is easily accessible by any means. The park is bordered by the A30, the A38 and the A386, with the M5 bringing you in swiftly from further afield. Exeter in the northwest and Plymouth in the southeast are both just 30 minutes away by car, with the option to arrive in Exeter by train or plane and Plymouth by train or ferry. The Dartmoor Line will bring you straight into Okehampton from Exeter.Travelling Around Dartmoor
Once in Dartmoor, the Country Bus 171 and 172 services connect the towns and villages while offering scenic rides across the moorland, and on summer Saturdays, the Haytor Hoppa provides a circular hop-on, hop-off service for visitors exploring the area.Seeing as this trip is all about being at one with nature, we highly recommend exploring the area's extensive network of lanes, cycle routes, byways and bridleways, either on foot, by bike or on horseback. If you've arrived at Okehampton Station, hire a bike from the shop next door and set off along the 11-mile-long Granite Way, part of the Devon Coast to Coast trail. The Dartmoor Way cycle and walking route, meanwhile, is a 95-mile circuit – with an optional 22.5 mile stretch via the higher 'Moor Link' – which takes you around some of the area's hidden gems.
Motor homes are not recommended on the region's narrower lanes and overnight stays are not permitted other than in official campsites.
A family walking a tor in Dartmoor, near Plymouth (© iStock/andyparker72)
Soak in Tavistock’s Cultural Heritage
The towns that surround Dartmoor all held their particular roles in the life and economy of this region, but few were as important as Tavistock. This market town retains so much of its ancient character and nowhere is this more clearly represented than in the Pannier Market, which has existed continuously for over 900 years and remains a focal point of the town. Still as lively as ever, this is a destination that can’t be missed. With a mixture of permanent vendors and those that appear for specific days, each visit will be unique. The market takes place indoors at a location which was created to much fanfare by the Seventh Duke of Bedford – after shifting the River Tavy sideways to accommodate this beautiful building – and is open every week from Tuesday to Saturday.
A view over the rooftops of Tavistock (© iStock/pjhpix)
Where to Eat
It is certainly not just the market which draws visitors. The streets of Tavistock are packed with independent shops and locally produced food options. With the rich Tamar Valley just a few miles away, the wealth of organic ingredients available is truly impressive. A range of delicatessens and wholefoods outlets provide the opportunity to taste local cheeses and other delicacies. After wandering past all these temptations, it's inevitable that your stomach will begin to grumble.At this point, The Cornish Arms should be your next stop. This traditional high street pub offers great quality food at a good price (making it the recipient of a Michelin Bib Gourmand award), and comes with the amiable welcome that you always hope for when you open the door into the bustling heart of a pub. Stylish innovation is embedded within a menu that also features all the stalwarts of pub food. Delicious ingredients elevate each dish and leave you plotting an excuse to return. If you happen to find yourself here in the afternoon, then Tavistock is the home of the cream tea, so your next decision will make itself!
The Cornish Arms in Tavistock, which offers great value Michelin Bib Gourmand dining (© Nick Hook)
Take in Wonderful Dartmoor Views
Sometimes there's nothing more relaxing than the feeling of being above all the goings on in the world with only the skylarks passing on their noisy messages to break the silence. Along the western edge of Dartmoor there are many routes into the National Park, but the most varied options sprout from around Meldon Reservoir. From here you can begin the Yes Tor and High Willhays circular walk – it's not an easy climb, but the views are certainly worth it. Taking in Yes Tor is a beautiful experience on a clear Dartmoor day; if you are lucky enough to be graced by blue skies, the views in all directions are stunning. These are the two highest points south of the Peak District's Kinder Scout and give you unrivalled elevation. Prepare for all conditions when walking these trails, as they may well be very muddy. The peat bogs of Dartmoor have claimed many unprepared feet!
Take in stunning views out over the Meldon Reservoir in Okehampton (© iStock/Lucy Bond)
Where to Eat
After a day being buffeted by the elements, a hearty meal is in order. Just a short drive from Meldon is the delightful Dartmoor Inn. Local fish from Brixham finds itself alongside venison and West Country lamb in a simple but ever-changing menu. A full vegan menu is available as well, offering some delicious alternatives to your staple pub favourites. The inn is enhanced further by the charming owners who, along with their wider family, set a friendly tone for all those that visit. The interior is classic pub chic and there can be nothing more comforting after a day on the moors than the friendly warmth of the interior. The fact this is accompanied by some high-class cooking is an even greater treat.
One of the tempting desserts at The Dartmoor Inn, Lydford (© Lauren Bond)
Where to Stay Like a King or Queen
Amongst such staggering natural beauty there are several buildings which also have a stunning presence all of their own. When competing with the hills it takes something special to carve out an identity and Bovey Castle manages it with aplomb, combining comfort with a classic English style. This restored castle is both welcoming and confident in its image. Bedrooms are enveloped within the art deco style of the castle and the lavish grounds will help you ease into your holiday. With access to their spa, swimming pools and a golf course inspired by JP Abercromby, there is something to appeal to everyone here. Stay comfortably in a Classic Room or push the boat out with a Castle Lodge.
The grounds of the Bovey Castle Hotel in Moretonhampstead (© Bovey Castle Hotel)
Where to Stay and Eat for the Ultimate Treat
There are few places that can rival Two-Michelin-Key hotel Gidleigh Park for effortless class, its Tudor beamwork speaking of the timelessness of the place. Situated amongst the deep green hues of oak woodlands, it is a building which feels at one with the land. The kind of place where a long night's sleep arrives with a certain inevitability. The rooms are varied and cater for even the most luxurious of tastes, from Classics and Suites to The Pavilion, a private cottage overlooking the croquet lawn, and the Spa Suite, with its spa bath that looks out over the valley. As you wake in the morning there are plentiful gardens to slowly wander through and a tennis court for those with a more active routine.Your stay will be enhanced further by the excellent dinner available in the intricately crafted dining room, as Gidleigh Park is the proud recipient of One Michelin Star. Here, Executive Head Chef Ian Webber produces consistently impressive modern takes on classic dishes. His focus on utilising seasonal produce from the best sources ensures that each meal reflects the natural bounty that surrounds this lovingly restored country house.
The quintessentially English Gidleigh Park in Chagford, which holds Two Michelin Keys (© Gidleigh Park)
Embrace Your Wilder Side
As you make your way out of this special landscape, follow the wiggling road to Cadover Bridge. This will take you to where deep pools exist in the peaty water of the River Plym. These are popular swimming spots on warm summer days, where you can escape the heat in the refreshingly cool water. This beautiful river plays host to all manner of life from elusive otters amongst the tangled riverbanks to seals that play in the estuary at Plymouth. There is even a truly ancient landmark in the form of the Brisworthy Stone Circle nearby. This restored Bronze Age stone circle is an everlasting symbol of the many people that carved out their lives in these hills.While the rivers of Dartmoor are some of the great natural features of Devon and the chance to be embraced by their cool waters is something which can set your pulse racing, if the water is not drawing you in, then this area has plenty of wooded riverside trails flanked by beds of deep moss. Another great place for wild swimming nearby to Cadover Bridge is Foggintor Quarry; this disused quarry now provides deliciously deep water for a bracing plunge.
Take a bracing wild swim in Dartmoor's disused Foggintor Quarry (© iStock/Will Tudor)
Where to Eat
A final stop on the edge of Dartmoor is the quirky town of Ashburton, a place which embodies the independent spirit that this region is known for, where jewellers rub shoulders with guitar makers, creating an unusual air. The town itself is beautiful in a very English way; the buildings are made to withstand the elements, yet have an inexplicable charm.Another part of the area's appeal comes in the form of two sister restaurants. Named after the Emilia-Romagna region, well-priced Italian cuisine is the name of the game at the homely Michelin Bib Gourmand awarded Emilia. Housed inside a former bank, its wine selection resides in a former vault. The chefs make their pasta in-house in true Italian style and, drawing from their inexhaustible catalogue of Italian meals, they produce a new menu daily. Just a few doors down, Le Vin Perdu moves to a different part of Europe, being all about French fare, from terrines to tarte Tatin. The delightfully rustic bistro includes a bar area, so arrive early for a pre-meal tipple, choosing a glass of wine or a cocktail from the handwritten blackboard.
Freshly made pasta at Michelin Bib Gourmand awarded Emilia in Ashburton (© Paul Secker)
And there you have it, a trip through Dartmoor National Park in Devon, that draws on the wild landscape but that is heavily seasoned with top-class establishments. Expend your energy amongst the ancient landscapes and then enjoy the comforting embrace of classic pubs and country houses. Above all, experience the wealth of local talent that is proudly supported by all those who live amongst these hills.
The tranquil River Dart at Holne Chase, near Ashburton (© Will Tudor)
Hero Image: Sunset at Hound Tor, Dartmoor, Devon (© iStock/cschoter)
