Dinners in New York are considered sacred. Friends get together to catch up and gossip over bites and drinks; new romances bloom over elegant plates; and families unite around the table. And one spot that fits the bill for any occasion is located a stone’s throw from Rockefeller Center and Fifth Avenue shopping. The first thing you notice when you enter the Fasano, located on a quiet stretch of 49th street between Madison and Park Avenues, is how calming it is.
Despite the hustle and bustle of the banks and retailers in the area, the Fasano acts as an elegant escape from the madness. Gliding into the antechamber is an experience; awash in dark Brazilian quartz a moody, yet refined vibe greets guests contrasting the soothing main space in shades of beige and brown. Similarly smart are the diners - locals and visitors alike - dressed in tailored, unshowy ensembles nary a logo in sight.
Grand, but not grandiose, the room is punctuated with wood adding extra oomph and quiet sophistication. The music follows suit with an elegant soundtrack that is groovy enough to be heard and enjoyed, but not overpowering [read: intimate conversations can be had].
Located in the short-lived space used for the relocated Four Seasons dining room and designed by Brazilian architect Isay Weinfeld, the Fasano is well-suited to midtown. The executive chef, Nicola Fedeli, is Italian born and has worked for the company for numerous years.
The meal:
Offering a la carte or a prix fixe, 3-course meal for $135, the options range from tuna tartare or beef carpaccio to start and include more indulgent and rich options such as vitello tonnato, burrata di bufala, along with a myriad of pasta dishes and meat and seafood all prepared in the traditions of northern Italy.
Course 1 — Panzanella
Taking a seat in the Edward Wormley chairs, the first course mirrored the aesthetic of the space. Composed, classic, and to the point. The bread was neatly diced with the perfect golden hue and crunch served with equally neat and precisely diced cucumber, halved cherry tomatoes, shaved radish, and red onion. Dressed with olive oil and red wine vinegar, the combination gained another layer through the accompanying slices of creamy, Buffalo mozzarella. Seasoned with a drizzle of herbed oil and ground black pepper, the combination provided textural balance.
*Editor's Note: At time of publication, the Panzanella has been replaced with the Polpo featuring octopus, chickpeas, scallions, and tomatoes.
Course 2 — Cappellacci
Of the pasta courses, this dish jumped out for its coziness. The stuffed, pinched pasta rounds, tinted black from squid ink, had a nice texture and were stuffed with a good amount of King crab filling which was seasoned and flavorful on its own. Dressed with a highly enjoyable saffron-seasoned, reduced fish fumet sauce, the dish also featured pieces of tender squid. This course has similar cues to the layout of the dining room as mid-century modern room dividers flank tables to feel distinct, but not isolated while plush carpeting below foot soothes with style.
Course 3 — Dentice
Carrying over the concept of clean aesthetics and flavors, the neat tranche of red snapper fillet—seared nicely crisp and with the perfect color of the skin—was set atop cherry tomatoes, shaved zucchini, and a few black olives in an Acqua Pazza broth. Like with the pasta course, the dressing was bold and highly enjoyable.
Course 4 — Tortina della Nonna
Dessert is a must, and the Tuscan dessert was served with a tender crust and filled with a bit of custard stuffed with pine nuts. Dusted with powdered sugar and set in some chilled crème Anglaise, and the look and taste were as smooth as the ambiance.
Final thoughts:
As the first American operation of the Brazil-based Fasano hospitality group, the vast, spacious, and elegantly arranged dining room feels luxe and soothing. Flattering lighting throughout and with a section of front plaza seating make this a welcome addition to the neighborhood.
Hero image: Eric Medsker / Fasano
