There are a few things you’ll notice quickly about Bad Idea in Nashville that set it apart from the prototypical dimly lit wine bar.
For one, its branding is straight out of a skate shop, with pops of neon on its Instagram and a signature chubby bubble letter font. The food menu leans heavily Lao. And the space itself is downright glorious: the restaurant is housed in a former church sanctuary, wood carvings, arched windows and all.
“There was a lot of effort made to make a potentially intimidating space feel beautiful and welcoming,” says Alex Burch, Bad Idea’s owner. “Hopefully you'll feel comfortable coming in whether you’re wearing an evening gown or your kitchen uniform after a shift.”
The winner of this year’s MICHELIN Guide American South Sommelier Award, presented by Franciacorta, Burch has created a wine bar that’s mold-breaking and approachable, with a no-stupid-questions ethos that reflects his own growth in the industry.
Burch began to study wine before he’d even got a taste for it, pursuing his sommelier training as a way to get a leg up at work at a steakhouse.
“I remember when my tasting notes for wines were less than rudimentary and very slowly learning to pull the curtain back on wine’s kaleidoscope of flavor,” he says. “I really appreciate having started my studies with virtually no prior recreational experience because it helps me connect with guests who are new to the world of wine.”
The wine menu at Bad Idea is as easy to read as any, with a key on its first page that breaks down the components of a wine listing. Plain English tasting notes are included throughout, along with wholesome hot takes (“No grape has been misunderstood more than poor, poor Chardonnay,” the menu opines).
“Wine lists can be intimidating,” Burch notes. “How can we expect someone to ask a question when they can’t even tell if they’re talking about a grape variety or a country?”
“We’re trying to promote exploration and trying new things,” he continues.
With flavors like Thai chili, lemongrass, lime leaf and fish sauce favored among the dinner dishes, white wines feature prominently on the wine list, Burch says, “especially ones with a little residual sugar and some citrus lift.”
A standout recent pairing is a François Chidaine’s 2019 Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Tuffeaux served with the bánh cuốn, a scallop-stuffed crêpe.
“The cream sauce is steeped with Thai chilis, and the wine’s age and touch of sweetness give it enough weight to match the texture of the dish while taking the edge off the spice,” Burch adds.
Still, like the best wine bars, Bad Idea is just as charming when ordering little more than a glass and a small plate.
“I always keep the menu in mind when building the list, but we also carry plenty of wines that might not be traditional pairings, yet make for great adventures with a snack at the bar or in the lounge,” Burch says.
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Hero image: Victoria Quirk / Alex Burch