Our famously anonymous Inspectors spend their lives on the road finding hidden gems across each destination. That means they know a thing or two about a good bite (or sweet punctuation). So we asked them to round-up their top picks in Vancouver.
From the deconstructed mille-feuille at L'Abattoir, tasty minced pork and seafood soup dumplings at Chef's Choice Chinese Cuisine, and the tender grilled beef short rib gheymeh at Delara, our Inspectors had a tough job but the below are a smattering of the flavors they couldn't get enough of.
And for even more Vancouver deliciousness, make sure to check out the full Vancouver 2023 selection! Bon Appétit!
L'Abattoir
Cuisine: Contemporary
Dish: Mille-Feuille
It’s a totally deconstructed presentation with torn layers of ultra crisp and buttery pastry sheets tucked with a salted honey cream, and crunchy, caramelized buckwheat interspersed and at the base. Bourbon ice cream rounded out the dish. It was salty, sweet, buttery, rich, clean, sweet…so good!
Barbara
Cuisine: Contemporary
Dish: Arctic Char
Two pieces of Arctic char, crispy skinned and cooked perfectly. It was served with hummus, lemon brown butter, pine nuts and a mint and dill salad with pomegranate vin—not a composition I would have imagined, but it was perfect. There were strong individual flavors of herbs and the balanced dressing paired well and highlighted the fresh fish.
Chef's Choice Chinese Cuisine
Cuisine: Chinese
Dish: Minced Pork and Seafood Soup Dumplings
I've never seen such a large dumpling served like this before. It was incredibly clever how they got it to stay whole without splitting open. It was cleverly served on top of a stainless slider to place in my bowl, at which point it did burst open. It was so delicious. The broth was quite clear and slightly thickened, and the flavor of the seafood and ham were very good. The tender crab was evident, the whole prawn was firm yet tasty, and the slice of scallop was soft.
Delara
Cuisine: Persian
Dish: Grilled Beef Short Rib Gheymeh
This dish delivered a heavenly fragrance the moment the server came out of the kitchen. The thick legume-based gheymeh, fortified with tang from dried limes and preserved lemons, is a slow-cooked stew of split peas, tomatoes, onion, turmeric (plus cinnamon and saffron) served alongside the slow braised and gelatinous, tender beef short ribs. The dish was finished with crispy potato sticks.
The Lunch Lady
Cuisine: Vietnamese
Dish: Bánh Tôm Chiên
The fritters were hot and golden, extremely crispy and flecked with spring onions and chilies with a large prawn inside. Served with a mass of vibrant green leaves, purple basil and fresh mint stem, plus a kicky chili lime sauce.
The Mackenzie Room
Cuisine: Contemporary
Dish: Collar By Her Name
It’s a slowly braised pork collar that’s moist, succulent and meltingly soft. A base of salsify purée added more weight and depth while a sprinkling of huckleberries lightened things up. It’s a big dish in every way.
Okeya Kyujiro
Cuisine: Japanese
Dish: Fish Tempura and Pressed Mackerel Sushi Course
This unique omakase course blends sushi and tempura. A dedicated cook is in charge of the tempura, and he works in a sectioned-off corner of the open kitchen. The tempura features white fish dressed with a dab of plum paste. The neatly prepared press mackerel sushi was very flavorful, then followed by Japanese pike tempura, served in a small cup, dressed with citrus and vinegar.
Hero image: Sophia Hsin/Delara