If Casa Cruz is anything, it is fun. Tucked inside a stunning townhouse between Park and Madison Avenues, Casa Cruz’s high-level cuisine and cocktails return to the days of celebratory cocktail hour before a leisurely dinner. And while there are some areas reserved for investors, the restaurant (and rooftop terrace) provide a respite from the hustle and bustle of the ordinary with flair. Below, we go behind the imposing façade, electrifying decor, and haute location, to speak with Casa Cruz's new executive chef, Alberto Carballo, on why this might just be the Big Apple’s most delicious and exciting spot.
Like the flagship London location, the menu is just as polished as the space. “Our concept idea is to present the best possible product complimented by unique preparations to make it shine,” explains Carballo. Inspired from his time at Luksus (a now-closed MICHELIN One Star) with chef Daniel Burns, the menu reexamines ingredients with an astute lens meant to provoke. “The carrot parfait with cumin gastrique made me understand that there are infinite ways to use ingredients,” adds Carballo. “If you think outside the box, you will find surprising results.” This innovation translates throughout the menu with highlights including the Piedmontese beef tomahawk imported from Italy, risotto with Maine lobster delivered fresh daily, and the Hamachi crudo with cucumber and orange sauce.
Carballo’s time with MICHELIN Three Star (and Gold Medal for Merit in the Fine Arts in 2020) Quique Dacosta and Casa Dani laid the foundation for his skills, but the chef’s first mentor came in the form of his mother. “Watching my mom cook for our family every day was quite inspiring,” recalls Carballo. “I used to help her make tomato sauce and peppers, and jar it to have throughout the year." The smell of fire roasted peppers still transports Carballo back to those carefree summer days as a child.
Carballo’s various mentors shaped his culinary vision: from his mother, Carballo learned to appreciate the fresh, local ingredients of Bierzo, Spain. “Seeing my Mother’s dedication to her cooking, and the happiness it brought us, made me want to share that with others,” explains Carballo. His chef-mentors taught him perseverance and a dedication to excellence. “Keep trying until you perfect it—a technique, a dish idea, and improve each day to be a little better than the day before.”
Carballo’s favorite? The octopus, grilled in the Josper (a charcoal oven) with crispy potatoes and romesco, topped with an acidic salsa verde. “I could say that I have octopus running through my veins,” laughs Carballo. “I am from a region in Spain where 'pulpo a la gallega' [Galician Style Octopus] is a traditional dish. As a little kid, I would express my love for it by asking my mom to make it every time she asked me what I wanted to eat.”
As for Carballo’s goal with Casa Cruz, the food remains paramount. “My goal is to complement an amazing cut of meat or a great carrot, instead of enhancing a mediocre product by layering flavors on top of it,” says Carballo. “The race in a restaurant is long, but we are here for it.” In terms of his personal goals, though, it is much simpler. For the Spain native, his eye is on the literal prize. "A MICHELIN Star is something I've dreamt of, and will keep fighting for." And no doubt, with his signature flair and flavor.
All photos: Courtesy of Casa Cruz
