There are many spots contained within the pages of The MICHELIN Guide that conjure up memories of fabulous evenings and delectable meals. I Sodi in Manhattan's West Village is one of those spots. From Kendall Jenner to Christy Turlington, I Sodi's mystique lies in its convivial ambiance and hearty fare. Below, we get the dish from one astute writer on what sets I Sodi apart from the rest, but click here to find out what our Inspectors had to say.
What is there left to say about I Sodi? It's been open for over a decade. You've seen it on every list. Reviews abound. Tough table to secure. Last minute or in advance. One of the best Italian meals in New York. It's true the food at I Sodi is a bit Milanese. Makes a lot of sense. Because it feels like you're there. Maybe a place only the locals might know about. Milan is one of my favorite cities to visit. Eat in. Maybe that's one of the reasons I like to consistently go back to I Sodi.
My first time was in 2014 in its original location. It had an immediate effect on me. I walked in and saw 8 tables. Intimate. Secluded. Long, dark wood bar. Brown is one of my favorite colors. Especially on leather. The ceiling beams, placemats and menus are all this tone. White tablecloths. Nice thin glassware. Warm lighting. Little details— they matter.
Beveled glass front windows. And replicated perfectly in the new address. From the inside looking out— you see passing red taillights of traffic on Bleecker dance by like a kaleidoscope. Reflecting off the divets in the glass.
'Mi Fa Sentire A Casa.' Which is what one of my closest friends told me was the translation for a place that feels like home. He's Italian and from Firenze. And I'm only writing it out that way because he insists. Otherwise I'd just say, Florence.
I hadn't really returned to I Sodi until 2021. On a first date. It would soon after— became my regular place. For special occasions and not. It's my number one restaurant in my hometown of Manhattan.
I prefer to sit at the bar. Especially when Shannon is working it. Greets me with a smile. Knows what I'm going to order to drink. Glass of Nebiolo. Sometimes a Macallan 12. Eat. Always the fried artichokes. They taste almost like popcorn. I often order the branzino. They fry the capers that are on top. Which gives the silky and refreshing fish an added crunch. A winning combination. I cannot for the life of me replicate this at home. The pappardelle al limone. It's the dream. Straightforward and simple. If it's your first time—maybe you'll order the brick of lasagne. Take some home for leftovers the next day.
The other staff come by and say hello. Catch ups. But doesn't feel like small talk. Going to dinner at a restaurant like this— it feels like an extension of my life. An escape for a few hours. From everyday stressors. To reconnect and recharge. And I live close by. The walk home makes me think of [the film] Paris, Texas. Travis and his son Hunter are reunited. And go on a trip through the Southwest to find Hunter's mother.
The way the new I Sodi is designed makes me think of Christo's Floating Piers. Maybe because being in a restaurant that makes you feel at home, with someone who sees it all the way you do, it's kinda like walking on water. Which is how Christo and his wife intended you to feel. The piers were wrapped in a golden orange colored fabric. Stretched across the lake. They came to mind not only because of the way they looked and being located in Northern Italy. But also because Christo first conceived of the idea with his late wife, Jeanne-Claude in 1970. They were an artist duo before she died in 2009.
I thought about them coming up with the idea together. And Christo, years later, accomplishing their vision. Alone, without her. I started thinking while writing this. About going back myself. To a place that gives me a warm welcome. Knows my order. Will hold a spot at the bar. Maybe around 8pm. Not rush me out. Let me linger. I'll have an extra glass of wine after the meal. I heard "This Must Be The Place" float by in my mind. The Talking Heads song.
"Home is where I want to be
But I guess I'm already there
I come home, she lifted up her wings
I guess that this must be the place
I can't tell one from another
Did I find you or you find me?
If someone asks, this is where I'll be, where I'll be."
