Travel 7 minutes 22 May 2024

2 Days in Kraków

Of all Poland’s cities, Kraków is the most popular destination for foreign tourists, and not without good reason! Aside from boasting a rich heritage of monumental architecture and a fascinating history, it is home to a wealth of gourmet gems. Join us for a culinary adventure!

Of course, the most touristy cities can be tricky for food-loving travellers. Where tourists crowd, the restaurants sometimes turns out to be generic and unoriginal, falling into stereotypes and clichés. Kraków could have fallen into this trap, but luckily – against all odds – it has not. Despite being a city steeped in history, Kraków has become a playground for young talent and culinary innovators. They have brought a breath of fresh air and creativity to the city’s gastronomy scene, as you are about to see for yourself.
Kraków is an easy sell – an imposing royal castle overlooking the smooth mirror of the Vistula River; striking buildings flanking the picturesque Main Square – the ever-vibrant heart of the city; nostalgic Kazimierz – for centuries a hub of Jewish life; and verdant Planty, a park that is conducive to a relaxing stroll around the Old Town… Meanwhile, its restaurants and cafés alone are reason enough to visit the city.

Day 1

Morning: Breakfast fit for a (plant) king – or queen
What better way to wake up than to the smell of golden-crusted bread and freshly brewed coffee? These aromas welcome you at Zaczyn, one of the first new-wave artisanal bakeries in Kraków. What started as a small shop selling sourdough baked goods is now an impressive open-kitchen bakery and popular breakfast spot. What makes it so special is that everything – all of the baked goods and dishes – is 100% plant-based, with no compromising on taste or quality. The shelves are so packed with loaves and baguettes, sweet and savoury challahs, and pastries in an array shapes and sizes to suit all preferences and appetites that it can be hard to focus on the menu. Scrumptious toasts with fluffy smoked tofu and roasted baby potatoes, indulgent sweets (toasted brioche baked with nut frangipane and fruit) with an almond “ricotta” topping and sautéed seasonal fruits, moist chocolate pound cakes and doughnuts filled with silky creams, along with oat milk flat white or fragrant pour-overs will stand you in good stead for the rest of the day.

Bread at breakfast spot Zaczyn © Dominika Tokarz
Bread at breakfast spot Zaczyn © Dominika Tokarz

Royal walk
From Zaczyn, take a leisurely walk along the riverbank, heading towards the majestic walls of Wawel Castle – the former seat of Polish royalty. Turn left and enter the maze of enchanting streets and alleys surrounding the Main Square, where you are bound to want to make multiple stops to take photos or check out galleries and shops.

Wawel Castle at sunrise © Krzysztof Nahlik/iStock
Wawel Castle at sunrise © Krzysztof Nahlik/iStock

Lunch: Mediterranean sun in Kraków
Cross the Main Square to Św Marka Street, in front of the MICHELIN-recommended Farina Restaurant. Launched by chef Monika Turasiewicz and her husband Juliusz (who heads the sommelier team), Farina is a place where Polish flavours meet Provençal sun and warmth. As Turasiewicz explains, she takes inspiration not only from the food and tastes she was raised on, but also the Mediterranean approach to ingredients and cooking. Alongside the core menu featuring the restaurant’s signatures (oysters served with a shot of vodka, turbot with porcini, black linguine with seafood), there is always an additional menu with seasonal dishes, such as shrimps with steamed green asparagus, Sambuca-flavoured sauce and pine nuts, or kohlrabi “cappuccino” soup with green pesto. Be sure to peruse Farina’s wine list, which includes many of the wines they import themselves.

Beetroot & Crayfish © Farina
Beetroot & Crayfish © Farina
Interieur Farina © Farina Restaurant
Interieur Farina © Farina Restaurant
Afternoon: Bar pit stops

Kraków is not a city to be in a rush and its plethora of cafés and bars invites you to take it slowly and soak up every minute. If you are curious to try out Polish wines (did you know there are more than 500 wineries in Poland?), then why not stroll over to Dzikie Wino Wine Bar after lunch? This charming wine bar in the very centre of the Old Town is housed in the historical rooms of a 16C townhouse and – in good weather – spills out onto its quaint patio.
“Dzikie Wino” means “Wild Wine” and, as the name suggests, it sells low-intervention wines from boutique producers around Europe, but it also stocks a good deal of wine made in Poland. Many Polish winemakers work with so-called hybrid grapes that are often more resilient to harsh climate conditions but also have their own unique flavour profiles: wine enthusiasts, take note!
If you would rather enjoy a cup of coffee than an aperitivo at this juncture, head to Somnium Cafe Bar for your shot of classic espresso or a refreshing concoction of espresso and fizzy tonic water.

Tapas with wine at Dzikie Wino Wine Bar © Dzikie Wino Wine Bar
Tapas with wine at Dzikie Wino Wine Bar © Dzikie Wino Wine Bar

Dinner with Copernicus
Fortified by that caffeine hit, you are all set for the final part of the day. To make the most of your time in the surroundings of the Old Town, book a table for dinner at Copernicus, a fine dining restaurant recommended by the MICHELIN Guide Inspectors. From the outset, this restaurant located in a 500-year-old townhouse makes an impression with its remarkable interiors and design. Notwithstanding the historical ambience, Copernicus serves adventurous modern cuisine. Guests choose from a five- or seven-course tasting menu, allowing them to fully experience the chef’s skills and culinary style, as well as the taste of seasonal produce. Examples of dishes include green asparagus with morels, langoustines with snow peas, and risotto with wild mushrooms and cheese chips – each dish is nicely matched with wine from the well-stocked cellar.

Dish at restaurant Copernicus © Copernicus
Dish at restaurant Copernicus © Copernicus
Interieur Copernicus restaurant @ Hotel Copernicus
Interieur Copernicus restaurant @ Hotel Copernicus

This same historical building on Kanoniczna Street is home to Hotel Copernicus, the eponymous five-star boutique hotel, recommended by the MICHELIN Guide as the place to stay when in Kraków. The room design is a perfect blend of the original architecture of the building and contemporary style and comfort. Classical wooden furniture is teamed with frescoes on the walls, and sleek, modern details, for a truly special setting for your city break stay.

Guest room at Hotel Copernicus © Hotel Copernicus
Guest room at Hotel Copernicus © Hotel Copernicus
Patio Hotel Copernicus © Hotel Copernicus
Patio Hotel Copernicus © Hotel Copernicus

Day 2 

Morning: Across the river
What better motivation to get out of the comfortable bed of your hotel room than breakfast? At Copernicus Hotel, you can choose between sets (Polish, Mediterranean, vegan), pick your preferred hot dishes from the à la carte menu, or spoil yourself with a Royal Breakfast complete with a bottle of champagne and caviar from Polish producer Antonius.
If you would rather use this part of the day to explore the city, plenty of breakfast options await you. Kraków is a city of peaceful patios and secret gardens, and Fornir is one such haven – this cafe and daytime bistro serving simple, home-style dishes is perfect for breakfast or brunch. On the menu: pastries and sweet buns baked on the premises, breakfast plates starring home-baked sourdough bread, open-face sandwiches made with seasonal and local ingredients, and eggs in different ways.

Pastry at Fornir © Fornir
Pastry at Fornir © Fornir

After a hearty breakfast, you will be ready to explore Kraków’s cultural scene. One of the most highly recommended spots in the city is the National Museum in Kraków with its terrific collection of 20C Polish paintings and sculptures; another is Manggha Museum of Japanese Art and Technology, located in a waved-shaped building, mimicking the river passing just next to it. From there, you can walk to the Podgórze neighbourhood, which in the last few years has undergone significant and positive changes, becoming livelier and increasing its profile in such a way as to counterbalance the always busy Old Town. If you are ready for a snack, try local artisanal bakery Piekarnia Miejska, known for its sensational sourdough bread but also its delightful sweet buns with seasonal fruit or pistachios and sea salt flakes. A few minutes’ walk from the bakery, you come to Rynek Podgórski. Around this triangular-shaped square, there are restaurants and bars of various genres where you can have a drink before heading for lunch.

Manggha Museum of Japanese Art and Technology  © Manggha Museum
Manggha Museum of Japanese Art and Technology © Manggha Museum
Piekarnia Miejska Bakery © Piekarnia Miejska
Piekarnia Miejska Bakery © Piekarnia Miejska

Lunch: A variety of flavours by the Vistula
Walking towards the river, you will notice a characteristic corner building with orange details on its façade. Inside is ZaKładka, a French-inspired bistro that skilfully brings the atmosphere and flavours of Parisian brasseries to Kraków. To start, choose between the classic French onion soup with croutons and truffle notes, or caramelised chicken livers in raspberry vinegar, served with figs and buttery brioche; follow with the veal tongues with gribiche sauce and boiled potatoes, or rabbit leg roasted in a mustard sauce and paired with pan-sautéed spätzle.

Snails at Restaurant ZaKładka © ZaKładka
Snails at Restaurant ZaKładka © ZaKładka
ZaKładka from the outside © ZaKładka
ZaKładka from the outside © ZaKładka

For something a bit different, it is worth taking a taxi to Molam – a Thai restaurant awarded a Bib Gourmand. Its colourful interior and open kitchen will instantly transport you to a fun and festive atmosphere of South East Asia and whet your appetite with its ever-evolving menu. Showcasing dishes from all regions of Thailand, it often incorporates local seasonal ingredients such as asparagus, fava beans and kohlrabi into its recipes. For the perfect complement to the vibrant food, choose one of the signature cocktails, available with or without alcohol.

Dish Restaurant Molam © Molam
Dish Restaurant Molam © Molam
Interieur restaurant Molam © Molam
Interieur restaurant Molam © Molam

Afternoon
Though the menu at Molam is full of tempting dishes and the food hard to resist, be sure to leave some space for the dinner that awaits you across the river, in Kazimierz. Once the Jewish quarter, it has its own distinct, nostalgic atmosphere and is known for cafes, galleries and concept stores, as well as being a great location to stay while in Kraków. Should you opt to book your accommodation in this area, consider the intimate and fairly priced Warszauer Hotel. Set back from the main streets, it has fewer than a dozen guestrooms, each individually designed and minimalist in style yet warm and comfortable with beautiful wood and stone features. Our favourites are the rooms on the top floor – the terraces giving onto a quiet courtyard are an idyllic spot for the first sip of coffee in the morning.

Warzauer Hotel © Warzauer Hotel
Warzauer Hotel © Warzauer Hotel
Room at Hotel Warzauer © Hotel Warzauer
Room at Hotel Warzauer © Hotel Warzauer

Now could be a good time to do some souvenir shopping. For something that will remind you of your Kraków trip, head to Leon & Miko, a pottery workshop where you can purchase original, handmade pieces, from cups to vases. Returning to Kazimierz, consider visiting Lulua, a niche perfumery. Peruse the wide selection of hard-to-get fragrances in an atmospheric space with well-trained staff on hand. If you are into wine or coffee, visiting such a perfumery can be a good way to train your senses and consolidate your knowledge of aromas. And of course, you can buy a beautiful scent to take home as a vivid sensory reminder of your time here.

Leon & Miko Pottery Shop © Leon & Miko
Leon & Miko Pottery Shop © Leon & Miko

Dinner: Two-star feast
Just a few blocks away from central square Plac Nowy, Bottiglieria 1881 was the first restaurant in Kraków to be awarded a MICHELIN Star and the first restaurant in Poland to be promoted to the two-star league. Run by chef Przemsyław Klima, Bottiglieria 1881 is definitely at the forefront of restaurants showcasing contemporary Polish cuisine. In Bottiglieria1881, Klima and his team have taken things to the next level, working predominantly with produce from the Lesser Poland region, choosing local venison or freshwater fish over delicacies imported from faraway countries. The chef is not afraid to reach for ingredients that, although sometimes considered ubiquitous, have a special meaning and value in the menu because of the ultra-short time of their seasonal availability. This could be wild garlic with its fresh aromas, elderflower capers or floral and subtle white currants, reminiscent of shiny edible pearls. While for Polish guests Bottiglieria 1881 often feels sentimental, showcasing familiar flavours in a totally new form, for international travellers, it is a wonderful culinary journey through Polish nature and the Polish pantry – a journey you will want to repeat as soon as possible!

Dish at Bottiglieria 1881 @ Bottiglieria 1881
Dish at Bottiglieria 1881 @ Bottiglieria 1881
Chef Przemsyław Klima of Bottiglieria 1881 © Bottiglieria 1881
Chef Przemsyław Klima of Bottiglieria 1881 © Bottiglieria 1881

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Illustration Image :  Dish at Bottiglieria 1881 © Bottiglieria 1881

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