The now famous red door ushers you into this temple of Italian cuisine. Once you cross the threshold, stairs lead up to the first floor, where pink walls and a fresco by Francesco Clemente welcome you, as do the friendly front-of-house staff. From here on, the focus is on chef Enrico Crippa's very personal cuisine, presented in three tasting menus (a fourth, shorter menu is available at lunchtime only): one linked closely to the vegetable gardens and the seasons, another intimately connected to the local area, and the last taking you on a journey through Italy and beyond. What emerges from every single delicious mouthful is the chef's passion for the plant world: vegetables, flowers and aromatic herbs, both cultivated and wild, are harvested daily and used to create memorable and aesthetically perfect dishes. The iconic appetiser, with its thousand and one delicious ingredients, continues to delight the eyes of the Inspectors. It goes without saying that we are in a land with a passionate love of wine, and indeed there are three whole volumes dedicated to it: Solopiemonte is a superb tribute to the region, while Tuttoilresto (divided into red and white wines) celebrates France. Simply put, the wine list is so extensive and varied that it alone is reason enough to visit the restaurant. And if you prefer to order by the glass, let yourself be intrigued by Sorsi: a small selection offering themed tastings, to be enjoyed according to personal preference or following a menu-based flight, with each glass telling a different story.