This dinky establishment, in the hands of Cyril Auboiroux for some ten years now, rolls out a concise, inspired menu composed of a choice of three starters, three main courses and three desserts. Local produce steals the star roles (Limousin beef, Corrèze veggies, sturgeon and caviar from Dordogne), albeit with the occasional more far-flung gourmet escapade and unexpected creations like an amber beer ice cream. Artistic plating enhances the perfectly paired contrasting flavours. Delightful, professional front-of-house team.