Ridgewood has a real gem on its hands in this neighborhood grill that goes above and beyond. The first room holds an easygoing bar with a talent for cocktails. Further in, the adjoining dining area comes to life as a roaring wood-fire grill bathes tables in flickering amber hues. Fire here is the key to much goodness, starting with the fluffy, smoky polenta bread smeared with the likes of Calabrian chili butter or sesame and wild oregano. Other favorites include potato croquettes, lasagna, and, for especially big appetites, dry-aged steaks served with green garlic butter. Globe lights, handsome wood floors, and a friendly, casual cadre of servers add more warmth to an already welcoming space where everyone either is a regular or is about to become one.