There is a restaurant famous for its meat dishes in Paris’ 14th arrondissement. The chef says that when he tasted its beef, its flavour impressed him so much that he decided to work there. He sources lean, flavoursome wagyu and beef from cows that have calved; seasonings are sparse, consisting of salt and pepper only. To lock in the flavour, the meat is pan-fried in copious oil, almost deep-fried. Food producers’ signs hang on the walls. Savour a simple deliciousness with a glass of organic red wine in one hand.