"Thin skin with a pinkish hue and a texture similar to goose skin—chewy and springy," "Chicken breast as firm and delicate as chicken thighs, with a rich, meaty flavour." Such descriptions of the long-lost Kinmen Native Chicken drew continuous amazement from chefs during an extraordinary feast hosted at the One-MICHELIN-Starred and Green Star restaurant, Mountain and Sea House.
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Top chefs from MICHELIN-recommended restaurants spanning various cuisines—including chef Wes Kuo of MICHELIN Green Star EMBERS, Alain Huang of One-MICHELIN-Starred Restaurant A, Chef William Kang of One-MICHELIN-Starred Restaurant Haili, Chef Lam Ming-Kin of MICHELIN-selected AKIN, and Chef Vanessa Huang of Ephernité—gathered to taste seven classic Taiwanese dishes presented by Mountain and Sea House’s executive chef, Leo Tsai. For many, this was their first encounter with the unique chicken breed, sparking curiosity and lively discussions about its exceptional texture and flavour.
The centerpiece of the feast, the “Kinmen Native Chicken” (hero image ©Mountain and Sea House), is the result of a conservation project initiated by Mountain and Sea House's parent company, YFY Biotech, in collaboration with Professor Chih-Feng Chen of National Chung Hsing University. By hosting this tasting banquet, Mountain and Sea House aimed to introduce the F&B industry to this indigenous breed, promoting native chickens beyond traditional Taiwanese cuisine and into the realm of fine dining.
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A Heritage Breed Combining Flavour and Resilience
Chef Tsai and his team spent three months experimenting with Kinmen Native Chickens of various ages and preparations, seeking the optimal balance of flavor and texture. Ultimately, they selected chickens raised for 18 weeks, weighing approximately 2.1 kilograms, and reaching "sexual maturity"—a crucial factor in unlocking the breed's unique qualities.
For the menu, Chef Tsai showcased the versatility of the Kinmen Native Chicken with dishes such as poached chicken breast and thigh to highlight the contrasting flavours and textures of these cuts. Delicate gizzards and hearts were transformed into savory chicken aspic, while a whole, deboned chicken was simmered into Herbal Dendrobii Calabash Chicken Soup, showcasing its rich gelatinous texture. Chicken wings were stuffed with sesame oil glutinous rice and pan-fried until crispy to emphasize the skin’s elasticity and aroma.
Kinmen Native Chickens, preserved with a 100% pure lineage, owe their survival to the strict martial law and border controls on the Kinmen islands, which protected them from hybridization for over 40 years. In 1991, the conservation journey began when student Weng Chia-Chun brought Kinmen chickens to the "Taiwan Native Chicken Research Center" at National Chung Hsing University, initiating more than three decades of breeding and preservation work.
This ancient breed is highly active, capable of roosting in trees and foraging independently, with excellent adaptability and disease resistance. Unlike most native chickens that reach sexual maturity at 12 weeks, Kinmen chickens require at least 16 weeks. According to Chen, reaching sexual maturity allows the chicken’s uniquely flavourful fat to distribute evenly between the skin and muscle, creating a sweet and savoury taste reminiscent of traditional Taiwanese flavours from his childhood.
A Forgotten Staple of Taiwanese Tables
In the past, native chicken was a staple on Taiwanese family dining tables. However, since the 1980s, Taiwan's fast-food culture has popularized white broiler chickens, which can be raised in just 35 days with high meat yields, quickly dominating the market. Today, native chickens account for less than 30% of Taiwan's chicken market, and unique breeds like the Kinmen Native Chicken are becoming increasingly rare.
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This time, YFY Biotech, with the assistance from professor Chih-Feng Chen, focused on reviving the Kinmen Native Chicken. While this breed has a low meat yield and high rearing costs, making its farming challenging, its extended rearing period yields unmatched flavour and unique characteristics, underscoring the urgency of conserving its lineage.
“When learning traditional Taiwanese dishes from veteran chefs, some ingredients were already so scarce that I had to rely on old records and consult livestock experts to trace them back. For instance, the ‘swan chicken’ some chefs often mentioned has completely vanished,” said Tsai (© image on the right, courtesy of Mountain and Sea House). He explained that restoring traditional Taiwanese dishes depends heavily on sourcing these rare ingredients. Even with the restaurant’s parent company acting as a food ingredient repository, the journey remains a significant challenge.
For example, a decade ago when the restaurant has just started, they attempted to use Kinmen Native Chicken but had to switch breeds due to limited supply and unstable availability. Revisiting the endeavor this time, they faced obstacles such as typhoons causing significant losses during the chicken's extended five-month rearing period.
Reviving Ancient Techniques
Despite the challenges, promoting Taiwan's indigenous ingredients is as important to Mountain and Sea House as preserving ancient culinary techniques and festive traditions, all of which are integral to their sustainability efforts to protect local culture. “In the past, before industrialized seasonings became widespread, traditional dishes relied on the finest ingredients paired with simple seasonings like salt and pepper. The heart of these dishes lay in sourcing the best ingredients and meticulously crafting broths,” Tsai explained. He emphasized that local ingredients and traditional methods are key to reviving authentic flavours.
For example, the restaurant now prepares at least five to six types of broth daily to recreate the rich depth of traditional flavours. Organic vegetables such as bok choy and A-choy are selected not only for their nostalgic taste but also for their robust root systems, high water content, and extended shelf life, which help reduce food waste. The restaurant also incorporates seasonal indigenous wild greens gathered by Taiwan's Aboriginal communities and preserves like candied radish for its "Congee and Side Dishes Feast," embodying sustainability principles of minimizing waste and eating seasonally.
Festive dishes like the "Spring Roll Feast" and "Man-Tan-Xiang" reinterpret traditional ceremonial meals with a modern twist, bringing cultural rituals and nostalgic flavors back to the table in a contemporary way.
Looking ahead, they plan to revisit and reintroduce the Hakka cultural tradition of making sour kumquat tea. This initiative aligns with their broader sustainable mission to collect and revive traditional ingredients and methods includes ancient sauces, Taiwan’s local spirits, Emperor’s rice, wild honey, and more, allowing these long-forgotten treasures to be rediscovered and cherished by modern consumers.
The article is written by Jenna Yang, Read the original article here.
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