Here in the Riviera Maya, Axiote Cocina de Mexico walks the line between spotlighting local culinary traditions and giving them a modern boost. Inside, the guano leaf-roof lends a palapa style to the dining room. Carefully presented and beautifully served, the generously portioned plates are one hit after another. Start with the tostadas de mais azul, knowing that the spice levels are indeed as described. Guacamole never fails but skip the tortilla chips and go for the chapulines (grasshoppers) instead. Fried and slightly spicy, they're a house signature. Birria de cordero is fork-tender, with elote, nopal, pickled onion and vegetables, and is especially hearty. Laminado de mango, perfectly ripe and accompanied by honey, orange foam and cocoa, is a superb finish.