With a primetime terrace that overlooks the Zócalo and across to Santo Domingo, in a space that oozes style, Chef Pako Cortés is cooking like nobody else. Experience in kitchens from Japan to New York has given him the tools to weave in international flavors with conviction. Meals must begin with toasted naan crowned with beef tongue, capers and yuzu aioli. It is as delicate as it is brilliant. Other dishes are not what they sound like: The salad is unexpectedly addicting, warmed in a tandoor and piled high with bacon, peas and parmesan. The chicken dumpling is actually a deboned and stuffed chicken wing glazed in gochujang. It’s a fun time all-around from start to finish.