At several points en route to this hidden restaurant, you will wonder if you’re lost. But hold steady: A half hour’s drive south of Oaxaca city and down several bumpy dirt roads, this humble, reservation-only destination is as close of an invitation into someone’s home as you’re going to get. Chef Jorge León and his mother Doña Elvia run this idyllic, breezy backyard with tables set under a canopy of trees. The tasting menu is by no means formal or lengthy. Rather, expect a leisurely procession of traditional, comforting dishes like tamal with pickled onions and red cabbage or chile relleno with lentils and avocado slices. A duo of moles with rice and a barbacoa taco round out this homestyle meal complemented with excellent tortillas.