At this restaurant that is firmly rooted in the zeitgeist, chef Sylvain Sendra pursues his fascinating culinary process with his usual enthusiasm and flair. He whips up modern dishes that draw inspiration from all over the world, featuring deceptively spontaneous plating and blue-ribbon ingredients, most notably the very exclusive vegetables from the kitchen garden of Asafumi Yamashita (market gardener in Yvelines in the Greater Paris area). Rather than bowl us over with flashy technique, the chef seeks to lay the emphasis squarely on flavours and delivering on the menu's promises. For a restaurant of this size, the quality of the wine list is striking: connoisseurs might like to plump for one of the rare bottles from the selection.