This village was once home to famous art dealer Ambroise Vollard, as well as Picabia, Picasso and Cendrars, who is buried here. Julie and Laurent Trochain run their lovely restaurant in a former hunting lodge that they have completely renovated. What a transformation! Gone are the beams, the fireplace and even the traditional façade, replaced by an eminently contemporary, geometrical and designer setting. Laurent Trochain, originally from Maubeuge, trained in some top establishments, not least at Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire. He champions the produce of the Île-de-France region, starting with his own kitchen garden (vegetables and aromatic herbs), and of his beloved small-scale local producers. His vegetarian menu is gaining in popularity.