The success of this precious jewel, set within a red brick structure and among a score of shops, is no secret, as evidenced by the onslaught of people vying to get in. Nominally embellished with sleek ash wood furniture, servers here mill about the room with big smiles and quiet efficiency.

The little bites and dishes that precede the nigiri can often feel like a second thought at most counters. Not so in this case, where Chef Morihiro Onodera's omakase yields an impressive amount of food. A perfect cube of house-made tofu with wasabi and soy tailed by abalone with aged yuzu pepper make for enticing openers. Close on the heels are such impeccably executed items as firefly squid with wakame seaweed and halibut sashimi with pink peppercorn. Minimally seasoned nigiri may unveil everything from clean, white hirame to appetizingly oily mackerel. Most of the products are sourced from Japan, but big eye tuna from Hawaii and uni from Santa Barbara make compelling appearances.

Thought and effort go into how this meal ends. For dessert, behold peak-season fruit, vegan mochi, and a raindrop cake with brown sugar syrup—all capped off by a box of taiyaki to take home and enjoy the next morning.