How much buzz can a smattering of seats, a sushi counter, and a two-person operation generate? A lot, apparently, when you turn a simple space over to the deeply talented Chef Yasuhiro Hirano. Together with his wife—who runs the front of house—this tiny, unadorned spot is responsible for turning out some of the most exciting sushi in town.
The chef's particular magic lies in weaving together a few key components, including the exotic fish that he ages before blending with a host of ingredients. He’s able to master dishes that other, more established pros haven't—and to such precise, creative and polished effect.
With such an intimate setting, diners are bound to be schooled in the process. Chef Hirano is clearly excited to share his methods and craft, and welcomes questions while he works. Then again, one may opt for silence to savor such delicacies as tender mantis shrimp glossed in eel sauce, or plump Kusshi oyster with ponzu gelée. Slow-braised monkfish liver may then be presented with a perfect sprinkling of black pepper, while sea bream is enriched by a dot of pickled plum sauce and shiso.