Hotel Ciasa Salares

If any place on Earth is impervious to trendiness, it’s the Dolomites, a stronghold of traditional Alpine culture. It’s one of the last places where you say “old-fashioned” with reverence and “rustic” without affectation. For three generations and counting, the Wieser family has been keeping that tradition alive at Hotel Ciasa Salares, an ode in rich timber and textile to the region’s venerable Ladin culture. Don’t come here for sleek minimalism; revel instead in the timeworn naturalism, an unshakeably pure mountain identity.

Lush Val di Salares takes its name from the area’s salt vats, once reserved for teeming livestock. Add in Ciasa (meaning “home” in Ladin) and you’re well on your way to the philosophy behind the hospitality — food-centric, to be sure, but not exactly foodie. Look no further for proof than Restaurant la Siriola (“nightingale”), headed by Italy’s youngest Michelin-starred chef, Matteo Metullio. He and his team espouse an absolutely genuine relationship with the provenance and flavors of the meals they prepare, incorporating wild mountain flora as competently as the latest gastronomic techniques. And of course there’s a wine cellar 16,000 bottles strong, many of them rare and/or biodynamic. Enjoy them to your heart’s content at the attached wine bar alongside aperitifs and small bites. There’s even a chocolate room offering 40 varieties and, yes, a Venezuelan chocolate fountain.

The rooms are essentially theatres for the astonishing view, as they should be, orienting themselves in terms of comfort and design to ensure maximum appreciation. Think raw larch, pine, and fir paneling for that classic South Tyrol feel, augmented by tastefully handcrafted patterns and fabrics. It’s all gorgeously artisanal: the furniture, lampshades, headboards, and much more all have the second function of promoting the community’s refined craftsmanship. As always, it’s best enjoyed after a day on the slopes; a ski-lift to the famed Armentarola slope is just 100 meters from the hotel entrance. Coming back, you’ll be eternally grateful for the bathrobe and slippers in every room — head straight for the spa, where you’ll find a Turkish hammam, sauna, solarium, and an indoor pool with chaises longues and floor-to-ceiling windows.

How to get there: Hotel Ciasi Salares is may be reached by car from three regional airports: 174 km from Venice airport via A27, SS51, and SR48; 252 km from Verona airport via A22, E66, and SS244; and 135 km from Innsbruck Airport via A12, A13, E45, E66, and SS244.