Purity at Lake Vembanad

“Backwater” is typically meant as a metaphor, and not a particularly kind one. But the Kerala backwaters are among the world’s minor natural wonders — this network of inland waterways along the southwest Indian coast makes for, if nothing else, a marvelous place to get lost. It’s here, on the shores of the eponymous lake, that the Malabar House group, the South Indian boutique concern with a predilection for small hotels named for abstract concepts, has opened Purity at Lake Vembanad.

Or reopened, perhaps. This strange white Italianate villa, backing up directly onto the lake’s shores, is only about a decade old, but it’s been given a thorough renovation by Malabar House. It’s split into four rooms and two suites, one of the latter comprising the villa’s whole upstairs floor — and if your Indian expedition is a large one, Purity is available in its entirety as a villa rental.

Backwater certainly doesn’t mean backwards. Purity comes equipped with wi-fi, flat-screen televisions, spa treatments, swimming pool and teaching kitchen. But the most memorable aspect of the Purity experience is bound to be the most low-tech one — by boat or by beach, the water is the main attraction, and dinner with the backwater as a backdrop is an experience you won’t soon forget.

How to get there: Purity at Lake Vembanad is located only 70 km from Cochin International airport and 8 km from the Alleppey railway station (on the mainline route between Trivandrum and Mumbai).