Bang in the middle of the seaside resort, this spruce, modern edifice is reminiscent of Sardinia, both in terms of the décor and the succulent seasonal food. The menu, which changes monthly, is liberally strewn with local and Sardinian ingredients. Examples include gently steamed local croaker in a tomato and cognac sauce with crunchy vegetables and black garlic or panettone French toast with roast apples, salted butterscotch and a scoop of stracciatella ice cream. The chef’s radiant wife cheerfully and professionally manages the front of house. Concise wine list of mainly Italian and local vintages.