Behind

Having worked in a number of luminous kitchens, talented chef-owner Andy Beynon struck out on his own in 2020 – and chose his own neighbourhood for the location of his striking restaurant. The ersatz-industrial look of the ground floor room is softened by a beautiful horseshoe-shaped counter which seats 18. It allows guests to see ‘behind’ the scenes, with every seat having a view of the chefs calmly preparing dishes; they also serve them themselves and describe their make-up with palpable pride. 
The surprise seasonal menu leans slightly towards fish but meat dishes, such as guinea fowl with pumpkin, are prepared with equal aplomb as roasted hake. The 10 or so courses are all delicate, balanced and skilful little creations that provide great depth of flavour and make for a memorable dining experience.