Celebrated as the “third house” because of its popularity among politicians making deals in the back booths, this venerable Chinese-American jewel has been family owned since 1939. Step inside and you'll be transported into another era by way of a retro bar serving up happy-hour martinis and an elegant dining room attended to by tie-wearing servers and festooned with valuable relics.

The menu is as much of a throwback as the décor, with yu kwok (crispy beef, pork and water chestnut dumplings) sharing equal billing with not-so-Chinese items, including banana cream pie. But don’t be dissuaded by the seeming inauthenticity as everything is beautifully executed, from the fried chicken marinated with brandy and ginger to addictive garlic-chili green beans.