In a non-descript Scarborough shopping center, Sumith Fernando’s smoked meat is something of a rite of passage. Fernando spent nearly two decades learning his craft at Schwartz's in Montreal before settling on his own recipe. His halal brisket is marinated in a secret spice blend for days, smoked for hours until tender and finally finished in a steamer. He opened in 2018 and has been behind the counter ever since, building sandwiches out of thinly sliced, peppery brisket piled high on soft, spongy rye smeared with yellow mustard. Against the advice of any physician, complete your order at this no-frills deli with poutine—fries topped with Quebec cheese curds and submerged in gravy. Ask for extra napkins, you'll need them.