Les Roches Rouges, a Beaumier hotel

Before the casinos and the Cannes Film Festival, before the French New Wave, before Brigitte Bardot rolled around on the sand in And God Created Woman, the Côte d’Azur was a place of respite. It still is, in spots, if you know where to look. Take Saint-Raphaël, an old fishing village turned seaside resort. It’s located midway between Cannes and Saint-Tropez, on a stretch of coastline known for its red rocky cliffs, tiny coves, and quiet beaches. It’s here that you’ll find Hôtel Les Roches Rouges.

The hotel isn’t new, exactly. The original structure dates back to the 1950s — to Bardot’s heyday, in fact, right around the time the term “jet set” was first coined — but it’s been through several iterations since then. And it feels fresh again, thanks to Festen, the hipster Parisian design duo who handled the restorations, dismantling the eighties-era decorations to reveal the building’s original charm. Today, sitting by the hotel’s picture windows, looking out at the sea, feels something like being on a beautiful vintage boat with a modernist interior. A boat with three cocktail bars and an open-air cinema. Oh, and a natural saltwater swimming pool with a lap lane, cut right into the red rock that inspired the hotel’s name.

There are hints of red in the guest rooms and suites, too, where both the color scheme and materials echo the natural landscape: red for the rocks, deep blue for the ocean, white for the clouds, earthy ocher for the sand. The look is cool and understated, and the amenities first-rate. Even the most standard rooms have private gardens, bespoke wooden bars, and marble bathrooms stocked with products by Diptyque. Most rooms also have oceanfront balconies or terraces, and suites, of course, come with more space and extra luxuries like Provençal antiques and standalone bathtubs with views of the sea.

There are two restaurants at Hôtel Les Roches Rouges: one in the main building, overlooking the sea, and the other down by the beach. Both serve classic Mediterranean dishes, and each has its own bar. Let the crowds stand in line in Saint-Tropez: we’ll take Saint-Raphaël, with its laid-back atmosphere and mid-century style, thank you very much.