Like so many sushi counters, this one too feels like a neighborhood secret, hidden in the back of a shopping mall with no large flashing sign to mark its entrance and overshadowed by far louder (read: busier) neighbors. And yet, this intimate gem is indeed worth seeking out, as the ten-seat counter offers the chance to enjoy a leisurely omakase under the impeccable guidance of Chef Atsushi Yokoyama.
Moments of quiet are filled by watching this one-man show lend artistry to the meal without too much pomp or glory. Begin with an assortment of zensai, tailed by a piece of peak-season fish that's masterfully cut, modestly seasoned, and entirely pleasing. Cuttlefish dashi may come next, served in a delicate and frosted vessel decked out with house-cured salmon roe, petals of uni, and just a light touch of wasabi. Kegani, or hairy crab, is then harmoniously foiled by fleshy okra; just as hotaru-ika (firefly squid) is deliciously enhanced by hinoki mushrooms, a dab of miso-vinegar paste, and tomatoes so sweet and tart that you may just never want for dessert. But hang on, perhaps we spoke too soon. Rumor has it that the almond panna cotta with macerated strawberries has resulted in many a swoon.