Murrhardther Hof, a culinary institution since 1920, has launched an inspired new concept. What sets it apart is that all the diners are seated at a long solid-beechwood table – perfect for mingling, but with enough space for this not to be obligatory. From your seat, you can even catch a glimpse of the open kitchen, where Moritz Bilsing runs the show. Dishes are often pared down to the essentials, almost to the point of minimalism. Each component is crafted with the utmost precision and finesse, a case in point being the wonderfully tender monkfish with pork rind crust, accompanied by a pleasingly robust chive oil-infused beurre blanc, leek rings delivering hot and spicy oniony notes, as well as an intensely flavoursome almond cream. The single set menu comprises five courses, plus extras at the start, in between and as a finale. Charming and adept front-of-house team. As an alternative to wine, there are interesting house-made alcohol-free pairings to go with the set menu.