Saint Julivert Fisherie

This neighborhood seafood favorite arrives courtesy of Chefs Alex Raij and Eder Montero, who also run next-door La Vara. The narrow space may not at all match the kitchen’s outsized talents and imaginative plates, which feature global ingredients with vibrant flavors. Sharing might be encouraged but that might prove difficult after the first few bites. Stick to the sea, by way of the fluke ceviche with leche de tigre and fried saltines or flaky fish empanadas with a fiery aji sauce. Lobster roll with yuzu mayo tempts but do save room for the jerk yellowtail collar, which arrives brilliantly grilled, charred, and paired with coconut rice and slaw.
The interesting wine list is arranged by the sea that lines the coast where the grapes are grown.