Always take on challenges – that was the teaching of Toshio Matsuno’s tempura chef father – which is why Matsuno travelled to the USA to broaden his perspective. The experience prompted his recent changing of the family restaurant from tempura only to a general Japanese restaurant. Tilefish fried with its scales still on and served with egg yolk vinaigrette sauce and shaved black truffle on top testifies to his broad-minded approach. The one dish Matsuno never omits is his tempura, in respect for his father. ‘Matsuno cuisine’ is an evergreen that never fades.