Jaffna, located at the northern tip of Sri Lanka, is renowned for its distinct culinary traditions that are influenced by its history and geographical location. The Jaffna-style Crab Curry is a dish that exemplifies the region's love for spices and seafood, combining the succulent flavours of fresh crabs with a medley of aromatic spices to create a mouth-watering dish. In Aliyaa’s case, they have been using a recipe has been passed down for generations.
Jaffna-style Crab Curry is typically enjoyed with a mound of steaming white rice, or with apam — freshly made string hoppers — to soak up the gravy with. With all these components in place, the dish is obviously best eaten by using one’s hands. The sweet, tender crab meat, infused with the bold flavours of the spices and the creamy coconut milk, pair beautifully together, with a harmonious balance of taste and texture.
Suffice to say the experience of savouring Jaffna-style Crab Curry goes beyond the flavours alone. This Sri Lankan dish encapsulates the essence of the culture's hospitality and the region's cultural heritage. Sharing a meal of this delectable curry with loved ones fosters a sense of togetherness and celebration, creating lasting memories and a deep appreciation for the culinary treasures of Sri Lankan cuisine.
Since it opened in 2007, MICHELIN-selected Aliyaa has been well-known for its authentic Sri Lankan cuisine made from the heart. Its Jaffna-style Crab Curry is as authentic as it can get, refined to suit the local Malaysian palate in terms of spice level. It has been a crowd favourite ever since.
The Secrets to a Proper Jaffna-style Crab Curry
"When I was growing up, having crab curries on the dinner table was a luxury, a feast for the family. My father, who, like my mother, was a tea planter, would occasionally bring home fresh flower crabs," recalls Siva Suppaiya, the cheerful executive chef of Aliyaa.
Sourcing the Crab and the Spices
"The first step in making authentic Jaffna-style crab curry is to source the freshest crabs available, ensuring the highest quality and taste. We use fresh mud crabs," says Suppaiya.
Born and bred in the tea region hills of central Sri Lanka, Suppaiya's first cooking experience was when he helped his mother and grandmother in the kitchen at the age of eight. Suppaiya has been with Aliyaa for 16 years and has worked his way to the top, and he is most notably known for his Jaffna-style Crab Curry.
"The spice blend is the next critical component, and we make our own spice blend at Aliyaa. Jaffna-style Crab Curry is characterised by its robust flavours, thanks to the skilful blend of spices. To ensure authenticity, we import all our spices from Sri Lanka. Dried red chillies, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, black peppercorns, turmeric, cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves are among the 13 varieties of spices in ours. Every spice ingredient is dry roasted in-house and sent to a flour mill to be ground to a fine powder before being blended to give the curry an aromatic, earthy base," Suppaiya explains.
Cooking the Crab Curry
"The cooking procedure begins once the spice combination is prepared. The crabs are cleaned and cut into smaller pieces, which allows the spices and flavours to permeate each area and crevice of the crab. To make a rich and fragrant base, sauté some onions, garlic, and ginger in oil until they turn golden brown. The freshly ground spice blend is then added, releasing its enticing aroma as it cooks with the crab. Water is added, along with cumin and black pepper, as well as with lemongrass and pandan for fragrance," Suppaiya elaborates.
"To enhance the flavours further, traditional Jaffna-style Crab Curry often includes tamarind pulp, which adds a tangy and slightly sour note to balance out the heat of the spices. Coconut milk is another essential ingredient that lends a creamy and smooth texture, complementing the richness of the curry. We only use fresh coconut milk," Suppaiya emphasises. One can anticipate the enticing aromas from this dish when the crab is being served into a clay pot.
"The secret to Jaffna-style Crab Curry is the medley of flavours and spices that awaken the palate. A combination of sweet and salty, along with the delicate crabmeat and the spicy-smoky roasted curry gravy — and then, in the final seconds of cooking, we add a generous dash of a spice powder blend made with roasted cinnamon, cardamom, and clove powder," adds Suppaiya, his eyes twinkling. "Also, a squeeze of fresh lime, topped with a garnish of moringa leaves just before serving to uplift the layers of flavour," he says. String hoppers, red rice puttu (steamed discs of ground rice layered with coconut shavings), plain rice, pol (coconut) roti, and roast paan (Sri Lankan bread), are among the rice and bread options that accompany the Jaffna-style Crab Curry at Aliyaa.
How to Make Jaffna-style Crab Curry at Home
"The first step to making a great crab curry at home is cooking with the freshest crabs possible. I would not advocate using frozen crabs because the flavour would be inferior. Fresh coconut milk is also a must-have." says Suppaiya. The key spices for making a crab curry at home are chilli powder, quality seafood curry powder, cinnamon powder, cardamom powder, and clove powder. "Alternatively, Aliyaa sells a range of ready-made spice blends! You only need two tablespoons of Aliyaa's Gunpowder – Jaffna Curry Powder to make the Jaffna-style Crab Curry at home," Suppaiya teases.
(Photo on the Left: Siva Suppaiya from Aliyaa)
What to Do with Leftover Crab Curry Gravy?
Suppaiya also provided an easy fried rice recipe for leftover crab curry gravy. In a wok with oil, stir in cooked rice and the leftover gravy. When the rice is well-coated with the gravy, crack an egg, stir, and add any additional vegetables or proteins that one prefers, such as chicken or carrots. "The gravy will become more concentrated the next day, perfect as a bread dip, fried rice, or even Maggi goreng (a local fried noodle dish)," adds Suppaiya.
