In 2024, Ryohei Hieda from Nagasaki, Japan, celebrated ten years of living in Taiwan. That same year, he brought his culinary vision to life with the opening of his new restaurant, Eika, in Dadaocheng, Taipei. The restaurant was awarded one MICHELIN star in its first year of opening and was promoted to two stars in 2025.
The name Eika comes from the elementary school Ryohei Hieda attended in Japan, and a passage from Mencius that likens progress to water — filling each hollow before flowing forward, eventually reaching the sea. It reflects Hieda’s belief in steady, purposeful growth built on a strong foundation.
In 2014, upon the invitation of his mentor Seiji Yamamoto from Three-MICHELIN-Star restaurant Ryugin in Tokyo, Hieda moved to Taiwan to lead Shoun Ryugin, which has been awarded two stars for five years since the launch of the MICHELIN Guide in Taiwan. Over the past decade, Hieda has explored Taiwan’s diverse regions, connecting deeply with local ingredients and producers. From garland chrysanthemum and sweet potato leaves to tomatoes, he reimagined everyday Taiwanese ingredients with surprising depth and emotion.
At Eika, his understanding of Taiwan culminates in a more expressive culinary style. “We saw great potential in the first year,” said an inspector. “By the second, the consistency, dish progression, and refined concepts left a lasting impression.”
In an exclusive interview, inspectors shared their experience of visiting Eika over two years and witnessing Hieda’s continued evolution as a chef.
Arrival
Tucked away in a quiet alley of the historic neighborhood Dadaocheng, far from the main commercial areas, Eika occupies a discreetly renovated brick house. Its modest exterior features only a small sign, keeping a low profile.
“Opening the door reveals a long corridor lined with modern copper-colored walls — it evokes the feeling of discovering a hidden British-style bar tucked inside a residential building,”
The corridor leads to the first-floor reception area, where ink paintings hang above a long wooden table. Guests can relax here with a drink — alcoholic or non-alcoholic — and ease into the experience. “It’s reminiscent of Hieda’s approach at Shoun Ryugin, where a welcome drink area was part of the ritual. But here, the standing format makes it feel more relaxed.” (right image ©MICHELIN)
The dining area features just six tables, with an open kitchen at the far end serving as both the visual and experiential centerpiece and spotlight. “Dining there feels like watching a performance in a cave — intimate and atmospheric.”
“We were seated at a round table near the entrance. The table was spacious enough to feel ceremonial, yet perfect for close conversation between two. At the center of the round table is a space where the service team places drinks. Their service is precise and attentive. The tableware, crafted from Taiwanese hardwood, showcases exquisite craftsmanship and attention to detail."
The Meal
“Chef Ryohei Hieda describes the cuisine at Eika as a uniquely Taiwanese expression and voice of Japanese cooking — something that can only be experienced here — and I fully agree. The 12 to 14-course menu is generous in portion, featuring mainly seafood and local vegetables, with dishes grounded in Japanese techniques but shaped by Hieda’s personal tastes and close ties to local producers. Each plate is refined, gentle, yet full of character.”
“One example is his take on Taiwanese savory soy milk. In the first year, he paired it with sake in lacquerware, echoing traditional Japanese dining rituals. The following year, he transformed it into soymilk tarts — one with tofu skin, pickled cabbage stems, and whitebait; another with fermented cabbage leaves and caviar. The subtle soy notes and pickled flavors were striking.”
The bowl course (椀物，わんもの，wanmono) featured softshell turtle soup with white horsehead fish (shiro amadai), clear and layered, fully showcasing the essence of Japanese cuisine, accompanied by tender loofah.”
“I was especially impressed by Hieda’s use of fruit. Its light, refreshing character served as a perfect bridge between courses. One dish paired monkfish liver with fruit corn purée — rich yet clean, with a soft texture and no fishiness. Another featured fried eel with red and yellow watermelon and house-roasted white sesame, offering a bright contrast to the previous course of fatty bluefin tuna with cold noodles and mullet roe.”
“Dessert was equally memorable: mango with milk ice cream and thin slices of fermented tofu — a combination of saltiness and sweetness — distinctly Taiwanese. It’s clear that Hieda has deeply rooted himself in Taiwan, not only mastering its ingredients and flavors but also blending them with his own interpretations.”
Teams
“The team at Eika is young, but their service is exceptionally refined. You can feel their passion in every interaction, and it’s clear they’ve been well-trained — not only in technique, but also in embracing and expressing Chef Hieda’s philosophy with sincerity and precision.”
Conclusion
Eika represents a new chapter in Ryohei Hieda’s culinary journey — a dream project where his skills and creativity flow freely, with no boundaries or limitations. The ingredients themselves tell the story. “Eighty to ninety percent of the menu features local Taiwanese produce, but Japanese ingredients are also used when needed to achieve the best expression and presentation to the guests. For example, the sashimi course might include Taiwanese lobster alongside Spanish mackerel from Japan, reflecting the chef’s evolving approach.”
“Compared to his time at Shoun Ryugin, Hieda now works with a liberating sense of ease at Eika. It’s a space where he’s no longer bound by constraints — where his ideas flow freely, and his culinary voice is confidently expressed.”
Tips from Inspectors
1. The menu at Eika is rooted in Japanese cuisine, with touches of Asian and Western techniques. A pairing of wine and sake is recommended to elevate the dining experience.2. Though not designed to be overtly romantic or lavish, for couples past the early stages, Eika provides a serene and elegant atmosphere to enjoy great food and each other’s company. Beyond the food, the mature and attentive service allows guests to appreciate the craft behind each dish while enjoying meaningful conversation in a relaxed, intimate setting.
Hero image ©Li Yu Chu Co., Ltd.
