Travel 3 minutes 16 July 2024

Karan Gokani's London: Why Soho Reigns Supreme

Explore all of the Hoppers founder's top recommendations for a visit to London.

In our new regular series, we will be asking famous chefs and personalities to tell us all about 'their London'. From top tips on where to dine in the city, to their personal haunts ranging from bakeries to book shops, we’ve got the inside track on London’s premier spots from the people who know it best.


A former lawyer whose love of great hospitality knows no bounds, Karan Gokani is the founder of the Sri Lankan and South Indian restaurant Hoppers. Launched in tandem with the serially successful JKS Restaurants group (who also own Bao, Gymkhana and more) in 2015, Hoppers has gone from strength to strength in the years since. With sites in King’s Cross and Marylebone to go with the original Soho operation, it has become a favourite of London’s diners and holds a Bib Gourmand thanks to its great value cooking.

“I never tire of exploring different areas of London,” says Karan. “We are so lucky to be living in this truly cosmopolitan city bursting at the seams with culture. Whether it’s discovering unique Indian food across Wembley, or the street art of Brick Lane, a stroll down Camden Canal, or bar and restaurant hopping in Soho, you are always discovering something new!” We couldn't agree more, which is why we've asked Karan for his top London recommendations.

Where do you go for a night out with friends?

"I love everything about Berenjak: the spaces, the food, the hospitality and the passion with which Kian and Julia do what they do. It’s one of those restaurants that gets better each time you visit. It’s perfect for a solo meal on the counter or with a large group of friends, if you’re lucky enough to secure a table!”

The recipient of a Bib Gourmand for its well-priced cooking, the kitchen at Berenjak specialises in flavoursome Persian cuisine ranging from kababs to khoresht.

© Berenjak
© Berenjak

What's your go-to restaurant for a celebration?

“I’ve been visiting A. Wong for a decade now and I love how Andrew hasn’t stopped reinventing himself and pushing boundaries. He has this inventiveness that comes from curiosity rather than ego. We celebrated our anniversary there this year and every bite was spectacular. However, the secret weapon of A. Wong, far more powerful than Andrew’s food, is Natalie’s impeccable attention to detail and passion in everything they do. It’s truly like visiting a friend’s home, with all the trappings of one of London’s finest.”

Andrew Wong has also taken part in our My London series. Check out all of his great recommendations.

Where do you go for a quick bite?

Dastaan is a wonderful neighbourhood restaurant in Ewell run by two stalwarts of the Indian restaurant world, Nandu and Sanjay. The food is no less than what you’d expect from a MICHELIN restaurant in central London, yet the ambience and hospitality are that of a wonderful neighbourhood restaurant filled with regulars. Their food is from the north and south of India, and as authentic as you can get. I believe their popularity has seen them open a new outpost in Leeds recently.”

Dastaan may be located on the outskirts of London but, as Karan explains, it’s home to an abundance of quality cooking. If you fancy making the journey yourself, it’s best accessed by train from either Vauxhall or Waterloo. For more information on how to get around London, see our tips on where to dine along each tube line.

Dastaan (© Tony Hickey)
Dastaan (© Tony Hickey)

What's your favourite pub in the city?

Drapers Arms. I’ve had so many fantastic meals there, from charity gigs with industry big hitters to Christmas parties with university friends. I can’t think of a publican with a bigger heart and more passion for the industry than Nick Gibson.”

Where can you find a great green space in London?

“I love Hampstead Heath and the ponds around Highgate.”

If you’re feeling peckish after a walk or a swim around Hampstead Heath, then head to The Bull & Last pub to refuel, which is one of the best dining pubs in London.

Hampstead Heath (© iStock/Dilsad Senol)
Hampstead Heath (© iStock/Dilsad Senol)

What are your favourite London hotels?

Ham Yard Hotel or Kettner’s.”

Part of the Firmdale Hotels group, the Two MICHELIN Key Ham Yard is a brilliantly located spot if you’re visiting London, situated right in the heart of Soho. Kettner’s is just up the road and is among the many London hotels that comprise a big chunk of the Soho House group.

Which is your favourite area of London?

“It has to be Soho, an area where you often don’t know what time of day or day of the week it is. It’s got something for everyone!”

We agree with Karan’s assessment of Soho, a vibrant and fun-loving area that’s permanently fizzing with energy. That’s why we’ve put together a guide on how to have a great night out in Soho.

Do you have a sustainable spot you admire?

“I love what the boys at Fallow are doing, at their restaurants and online. They make sustainable cooking cool (and so tasty)!”

Chefs Jack Croft and Will Murray, the ‘boys’ Karan refers to, are vocal proponents of the low-waste ethos behind nose-to-tail cooking and whole animal butchery.

The cod's head dish at Fallow (© Steven Joyce)
The cod's head dish at Fallow (© Steven Joyce)

What's your favourite bakery in London?

Miel Bakery. Despite having grown up in India, Shaheen Peerbhai’s passion and knowledge for French patisserie can give most French bakers a run for their money. She never compromises on time or ingredients and this shows in every item sold at Miel.”

Do you have a favourite market?

Queen’s Park Farmers’ Market on Sundays, where I go to buy everything from kimchi to mango yoghurt.”

Where do you like to buy your produce?

VB & Sons in Kingsbury for every Indian spice, vegetables you’ve never seen and cookware you never knew you wanted!”

What are your favourite book shops in London?

“I love Daunt Books and Books for Cooks.”

Daunt Books (© iStock/phaustov)
Daunt Books (© iStock/phaustov)


Address Book

Books for Cooks, 4 Blenheim Cres, London, W11 1NN
Daunt Books, 84 Marylebone High St, London, W1U 4QW
Miel Bakery, 60-61 Warren St, London, W1T 5NU
Queen’s Park Farmers’ Market, Salusbury Primary School, Salusbury Rd, London, NW6 6RG
VB & Sons Kingsbury, 738 Kenton Rd, Kingsbury Circle, London, NW9 9QB


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Hero Image: Karan Gokani (© Hoppers/Lateef Okunnu)

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