Where to Experience Counter-Style French Dining in Tokyo

The curve of the counter recalls the stage of an intimate theater, with chefs preparing each dish in full view. Plates arrive as vivid compositions, artworks in color and form that are simply breathtaking.

The name blends “circulation” and “passion,” fitting for a restaurant devoted to carrying cuisine into the next generation. Its light dishes, prepared with Japanese ingredients, reflect a modern sensibility

Prix fixe menus are built around three elements: the starring role, shared by the chef and the diner; evangelism, spreading appreciation for French cuisine; and purpose, the intentions of food producers, expressed through each dish. Together, these three aspects tell the story behind the food.

At Mētis Roppongi, flames from the wood-fired hearth add the excitement of live performance. In the spirit of wakon yosai — Japanese spirit with Western learning — the use of wood and charcoal pushes French cuisine in new directions. The chef’s passion comes through in his explanations of each dish, while the sommelier’s wine pairings elevate each course.

La Gloire, table seating is the norm, but four coveted counter seats line the kitchen. From here, dining feels like watching a play from the wings, with all the intimacy and cachet of a chef’s table.

The name draws from hanakotoba, Japan’s language of flowers, with crystal plates shaped like blossoms casting a dazzling gleam across the room. At the counter, food is served the moment it’s ready, with a smile that puts diners at ease.