Chef Jérôme Banctel’s résumé reads like a who's who of Paris' most prestigious kitchens, including Le Jules Verne in the Eiffel Tower, Les Ambassadeurs at Hotel de Crillon, and the legendary Lucas Carton. A two-time competitor on France’s popular Top Chef, his reserved demeanor belies the boldness of his culinary approach. Dining at Le Gabriel, the Three-MICHELIN-Starred restaurant housed in La Réserve, I discovered that his cooking is every bit as remarkable as his credentials. Banctel’s technical precision is balanced by creativity that elicits a range of emotions, proving that cooking can speak louder than words.
The Rennes-born chef brings regional influences from across France, including his native Brittany, to his dishes, and at Le Gabriel, those flavors shine. My experience at this Parisian restaurant, inside an exceptional hotel, felt like a journey.
Timeless Elegance Meets Fresh Energy
Housed in an 1854 mansion once owned by Napoleon III's half-brother, La Réserve’s individuality is a welcome contrast to the cookie-cutter design of many luxury hotels. A year after my last visit, I was delighted to return to this intimate property, where architect Jacques Garcia captured its storied past and added baroque touches. The gilt Spanish leather walls were a striking detail. Before my companions arrived, I savored a moment in the bar—a haven from the city’s bustle, with its padded seats and serene atmosphere.
Le Gabriel’s dining room is flooded with natural light from expansive windows overlooking the Champs-Élysées gardens. The space feels like a sanctuary, from the pristine white tablecloths and artisan silverware to the sparkling crystal glassware and delicate porcelain, including pieces from Bernardaud, the French porcelain maison.
While the décor evokes Napoleon III’s grandeur, the staff brings a fresh energy to the experience. The youthful, diverse team delivered the menu with poise, ensuring every dish was explained in detail. Service was impeccable—polished but not intrusive, paced perfectly, and presented with confidence. The staff struck the ideal balance between professionalism and warmth, creating an atmosphere that felt welcoming rather than stuffy—no small feat in a Three-MICHELIN-Starred restaurant.
Banctel’s Culinary Vision Unfolded
Banctel’s culinary philosophy is one of refinement—stripping away excess to allow the flavors of each ingredient to shine. On this weekday afternoon, he shared two tasting menus that illustrated his vision: Virée, a tribute to his Breton roots, and Périple, a global journey inspired by Japan and Turkey, where he encountered the transformative lime water cooking technique. During hunting season, he offers a game-focused menu that adds depth to his already diverse repertoire.
From his signature blue lobster cooked over binchotan charcoal to a reimagined mackerel dish, Banctel’s mastery was evident in every bite. The flavors he coaxed from each ingredient—whether tart, sweet, spicy, or briny—left a lasting impression.
A Blend of Flavors and Technique
Squid Tagliatelle with Cuttlefish Ink and Caviar
The first bite of squid tagliatelle with cuttlefish ink and caviar immediately transported me. The briny cuttlefish ink mingled with the salty pop of caviar, while the tender squid added a delicate freshness to the mix. A rich duck jus, reduced to just the right consistency, brought depth, balancing the dish’s flavors. It was an elegant combination, and each bite lingered on my palate.
Mackerel with Sea Urchin and Bourride Sauce
Then there was the mackerel with sea urchin and bourride sauce (originating from Provence), which arrived like a performance. The thick mackerel fillet, encased in cedar leaves and placed under a glass cloche, rested on hot pebbles, releasing an aromatic steam. The waiter basted it with white wine broth until it was perfectly cooked, then plated it with a creamy sea urchin and a velvety bourride sauce infused with garlic and ginger. On the side, melt-in-your-mouth steamed potatoes were crowned with bottarga and samphire. It was simple at first glance, but the layers of flavor transformed the humble mackerel into something luxurious.
Plump Chicken with Lait Ribot, Pea Tartlet, and Wild Garlic
The plump chicken with lait ribot (a fermented Breton milk), pea tartlet, and wild garlic is the kind of dish that feels like a warm hug. Marinated for hours in lait ribot buttermilk, the Mayenne poularde was poached until the flesh was tender, and the skin crisped to perfection. The tangy lait ribot emulsion provided a creamy contrast, and the pea tartlet, bursting with French peas, onions, bacon, and wild garlic flowers, added a lovely freshness. The wild garlic oil reduction tied everything together, making every bite indulgent and satisfying.
Final Thoughts
Chef Jérôme Banctel’s brilliance at Le Gabriel goes beyond simply preparing food—it’s about creating an experience that stays with you. Whether you’re visiting in the heart of the season or during quieter months, the journey is always memorable. If you’re a fan of game, don’t miss the seasonal hunting menu—it’s an absolute must. And for a more wallet-friendly indulgence, the four-course lunch menu at €98 offers a taste of the chef’s talent, especially his plant-based creations. Dining here, surrounded by midday light, is a rare treat in the heart of Paris.
Hero image: Inside the dining room of France's latest Three-Star temple. (©Grégoire Gardette/Le Gabriel - La Réserve Paris)
