Masashi Ljichi, Japanese-born star chef of La Cachette, has made his dream come true in this wholehearted, flavoursome bistro, whose name pays homage to a former shuttle (bac) that used to cross the Rhône by way of a cable (traille). In addition to a high-flying gastronomic score, the chef crafts bistronomic dishes rich in big-boned flavours that are bang on every time. The market-fresh cuisine is impeccably curated, always punchy and heroically tasty, illustrated by poultry terrine, veggie pickles and lentil salad or lacquered pork belly in Timut pepper with fluffy mashed potatoes. We recommend the coconut pineapple and rum soup with tapioca and a velvety pineapple sorbet to finish. Fine selection of regional vintages. Knockout value for money.