Lebua Lucknow

Travelers from all over the world come to Uttar Pradesh with one goal in mind: passing through the grand marble gates of the Taj Mahal. Far from the camera-snapping crowds of Agra, however, another destination awaits, one that’s relatively undiscovered by tourists. Lucknow, the capital, doesn’t have one must-see landmark. What it offers is the chance to step into the past — to wander through glittering sultan’s palaces, to view the faded grandeur of the British Raj, to live out their Passage to India-style fantasy in relative solitude.

Stay under the Forsterian spell by checking into Lebua Lucknow. The historic hotel, located inside an Art Deco-style bungalow and surrounded by manicured green lawns and reflecting pools, is rich with turn-of-the-century charm. Guest rooms, featuring details like hand-carved headboards, antique wooden chairs, and cushions covered with traditional Chikan embroidery, open onto colorfully tiled patios and terraces. Breezy passageways, framed by wooden latticework, lead between candlelit courtyards. It’s seamless indoor-outdoor living, as it always has been in this part of India, but with elegant updates and modern in-room amenities like flat-screen TVs and free wi-fi.

Awadhi, Hyderabadi, and Rajasthani cuisines are all represented at Azrak, the hotel’s signature restaurant. Lined with bright blue tile and dark wooden paneling, it’s encased with glass windows that look out over Lebua Lucknow’s lush gardens. There’s also 1936 for al fresco dining: strange as it may seem to feast on Italian cuisine while traveling in India, remember that Lucknow is a cultural crossroads as you belly up to the hotel bar. Perched atop a decorative wooden stool, sipping scotch out of a crystal glass and bathing in the soft glow of the chandelier overhead, you’ll feel transported to English colonial days. In the morning, venture out into the fabulously photogenic streets of Lucknow. There’s even a spectacular pair of mausoleums — and you won’t have to wait in any lines to see them.