Relais de Chambord

Some French chateaux are scarcely more than large and impressive houses, but the Château de Chambord, in the Loire Valley, is a proper castle; Disney’s Beauty and the Beast took its inspiration from Chambord, but had to tone it down a bit, as the real thing is too enormously opulent even for fantasy. And the Relais de Chambord could hardly boast of a more privileged position — it’s not just set on the estate, it’s straight across the lawn from the castle itself, and thus surrounded by endless parklands full of wildlife.

In the 17th century the structure that houses the Relais was literally a doghouse, home to the king’s hunting dogs. Safe to say it’s been upgraded a bit; after a very thorough renovation it opened in 2018 as an extraordinarily luxurious small luxury hotel. And while it’s necessarily steeped in history, by virtue of its heritage and its location, it’s refreshingly contemporary in style, with minimalistic color schemes, modern furniture, and photographic murals of the castle’s architecture.

Many rooms and suites, of course, look directly out at the real thing, as does the terrace of the restaurant, where chef Rita Silva serves fresh, seasonal French fare in a pair of dining rooms furnished with works by contemporary designers. There’s a small spa, for a bit of bodily relaxation, and the grounds offer ample opportunity for recreation — while the hunting pack is retired, you can tour Chambord and its surroundings on foot, on a bicycle, or even by rowboat.