The son and grandson of Japanese wagashi artisans, Koichi Izumi was, perhaps, born with a sweet tooth. As a child, he pottered around the family shop, helping his father and grandfather as they crafted delicate sweets that reflected the seasons with their shapes, colours and ingredients.
At the Tokyo Confectionary College, Izumi found himself at a crossroads — to continue the path of traditional Japanese confections or venture into European-style pastry. Sensing a wider world of exploration, he pursued the latter.
Today, the chef holds an impressive list of pastry credentials. In 2006 and 2008, he won the World’s Pastry Championship and in 2005, he made history by scoring third place and becoming the first Japanese prize winner at the prestigious World Chocolate Masters.
His flagship pastry shop, Asterisque, in the upscale Shibuya neighbourhood in Tokyo, draws long lines for his sublime French pastries that reflect his refined Japanese roots. But for the month August, dessert lovers in Hong Kong need not fly to Tokyo for a taste of the master’s work. Four of his signature desserts will be featured in the Afternoon Tea Set at The Lounge in the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong.
Today, the chef holds an impressive list of pastry credentials. In 2006 and 2008, he won the World’s Pastry Championship and in 2005, he made history by scoring third place and becoming the first Japanese prize winner at the prestigious World Chocolate Masters.
His flagship pastry shop, Asterisque, in the upscale Shibuya neighbourhood in Tokyo, draws long lines for his sublime French pastries that reflect his refined Japanese roots. But for the month August, dessert lovers in Hong Kong need not fly to Tokyo for a taste of the master’s work. Four of his signature desserts will be featured in the Afternoon Tea Set at The Lounge in the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong.
Fraicheur is Izumi’s play on the traditional French tarte citron, enlivening taste buds with a refreshing yuzu base. Ripples is a bon bon chocolate with a praline centre, while Rouge is a romantic cake with pink accents featuring strawberries, raspberries and red currant. Matcha, so emblematic of Japanese rituals, features in his matcha tiramisu which is made à la minute with mascarpone.
We catch him in residence at The Lounge in the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong as he launches the promotion.
We catch him in residence at The Lounge in the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong as he launches the promotion.
Izumi's sweet creations will be part of The Lounge's Afternoon Tea Set in August. (Pic: Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong)
How did your family’s wagashi tradition influence your career?
My father and grandfather are wagashi artisans and they passed the attitude and spirit to me. Wagashi is traditionally made by hand, everything is made from scratch and no machines are used in the process. All the sweets are made fresh daily and they will not keep any leftovers, so wagashi masters wake up very early in the morning because they want their guests to enjoy food that’s made fresh every day. This is the spirit I want to encompasses in my career as a pastry chef.
How do you incorporate your Japanese roots in your pastries?
Wagashi is primarily made with three ingredients: red bean paste, green tea and yuzu. I like to use these traditional ingredients in my pastries and still strike a perfect balance between Japanese and French elements.
I designed the logo of Asterisque, my name cards and even the packaging of the pound cake, taking inspiration from kimono patterns. My plating and the form of the desserts are unique and also lean more towards the Japanese style.
My father and grandfather are wagashi artisans and they passed the attitude and spirit to me. Wagashi is traditionally made by hand, everything is made from scratch and no machines are used in the process. All the sweets are made fresh daily and they will not keep any leftovers, so wagashi masters wake up very early in the morning because they want their guests to enjoy food that’s made fresh every day. This is the spirit I want to encompasses in my career as a pastry chef.
How do you incorporate your Japanese roots in your pastries?
Wagashi is primarily made with three ingredients: red bean paste, green tea and yuzu. I like to use these traditional ingredients in my pastries and still strike a perfect balance between Japanese and French elements.
I designed the logo of Asterisque, my name cards and even the packaging of the pound cake, taking inspiration from kimono patterns. My plating and the form of the desserts are unique and also lean more towards the Japanese style.
Izumi's signature pound cakes were also available for a limited time (Pic: Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong)
What flavour combinations or techniques have been exciting you recently?
In my career, I’ve tried countless flavour combinations and now I like to focus on the technique of bringing four or even five ingredients together in harmony. Take my dessert, Rouge, for example. It has red currant, yuzu, banana and strawberries and when you put them together, you don't just get four flavours, you also get a fifth flavour which is the result of bringing these ingredients together.
What do you think are the top three qualities a pastry chef needs to have to succeed?
First of all, you need a sensitive palate. Some say cooking is art, so having an artistic sense is important. Last but not least, you need to be curious and humble at the same time. I will keep learning and improving until the day I die, there is no end to it. Knowledge is infinite.
What can guests expect to enjoy at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong while you’re here?
Four Seasons is a brand that creates wonders and I am looking forward to working with the Four Seasons team and creating chemistry with them.
In my career, I’ve tried countless flavour combinations and now I like to focus on the technique of bringing four or even five ingredients together in harmony. Take my dessert, Rouge, for example. It has red currant, yuzu, banana and strawberries and when you put them together, you don't just get four flavours, you also get a fifth flavour which is the result of bringing these ingredients together.
What do you think are the top three qualities a pastry chef needs to have to succeed?
First of all, you need a sensitive palate. Some say cooking is art, so having an artistic sense is important. Last but not least, you need to be curious and humble at the same time. I will keep learning and improving until the day I die, there is no end to it. Knowledge is infinite.
What can guests expect to enjoy at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong while you’re here?
Four Seasons is a brand that creates wonders and I am looking forward to working with the Four Seasons team and creating chemistry with them.
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