In the world of haute pâtisserie, the art of creating high-end, artfully crafted pastries, few names shine brighter than Nina Métayer. Last June, the French pastry virtuoso added yet another accolade to her growing list of international triumphs, being named World’s Best Pastry Chef 2024 by The World's Best Restaurants, a MICHELIN Guide affiliated list. This honor comes on the heels of her 2023 title of World Pastry Chef awarded by the International Union of Bakers and Pastry Chefs (UBIC), further confirming her place at the pinnacle of her craft—and she's just warming up.
Métayer’s journey, however, was far from predictable. Her dream was to become a baker—more rustic croissants than carefully sculpted cakes. She only turned to pâtisserie after being told baking wasn't women's work. It turned out to be a life-changing pivot. Today, at 36, not only does she stand as a global ambassador for French pâtisserie, the first woman ever chosen by UBIC to represent the profession worldwide, but she has also just opened two beloved bakeries. Her exceptional talent was most recently showcased when she created the desserts for the State Dinner honoring Chinese President Xi Jinping at the Élysée Palace in May. With elegance, precision, and an innate understanding of flavor, Nina Métayer is rewriting the rules of dessert, one creation at a time.
Your journey into the world of pastry began in a rather unexpected way—can you tell us about that pivotal moment?
It all started when I was 16 during a school exchange trip to Mexico. People would constantly ask me, "Since you're French, will you be opening a bakery here?" I actually wanted to stay in Mexico and open my own bakery. So, when I returned to France, I decided to train as a baker. Unfortunately, finding a job in Paris as a woman in bread-baking wasn’t easy. I was told that it was too physical and hard for a woman. So, I turned to pastry, which was seen as a more "feminine" profession. I told myself I’d start there, prove myself, and eventually return to bread-making.How did you get your start?
I began at Le Meurice under Yannick Alléno and Camille Lesecq, where I really learned about haute pâtisserie. After that, I moved to Le Raphael with Chef Amandine Chaignot, and I loved my time there. I began building my own team and developing my own creations. From there, I joined Jean-François Piège to open Le Grand Restaurant, where I truly learned the demands of excellence and the rigor of haute gastronomy. Then, my time at Café Pouchkine gave me a deep understanding of the business side of things—working for a large group, I learned about development, numbers, and accounts.You’ve worked in top kitchens and then transitioned into opening your own business. What drove you to take that leap?
After Café Pouchkine and consulting for other businesses, I finally felt strong enough to face the challenges of going independent. In 2020, I launched my own brand, Delicatesserie, and we built a loyal customer base online before opening physical locations. We now have shops in Printemps du Goût in central Paris and in Issy-les-Moulineaux on the outskirts. I never imagined being independent, but once I had helped others build their businesses, I realized I could do it for myself.
You’ve just opened two new spots in La Rochelle, your hometown. What’s the story behind that?
I opened two locations in La Rochelle last November. It’s a special project because I bought the bakeries of the only baker who would train me when I was younger—he’s retiring, and it felt like the right time to take over. It’s a full-circle moment for me, going back to where I started and finally combining both bread and pastry.Balancing your career and family life sounds demanding—how do you manage it all?
It’s definitely a juggling act. I have two daughters, and I split my time between Paris, where I work, and Normandy, where we have a house and a lab where I create. My schedule is tightly managed. Most days, I get up at 3 a.m. and work until about 6 p.m. when I pick up my girls. It’s intense, but I think people resonate with my story, this mix of my personal life and my creative work. Like my flavors—chestnut cake or grape tart—it's who I am that connects with people.Your journey has been defined by persistence and experimentation. Can you tell us more about your creative process and mindset?
I’m someone who likes to see things through to the end. I’m not afraid of starting over, of failing—it’s all part of the process. For example, I’ve been working on my feuilletage recipe for six years, constantly experimenting with new ideas. I love to push boundaries and try new things, but it’s not just about me. The team I have today, both professionally and personally, is crucial. It’s a whole community that supports me and helps me dare to take risks. People know that I value quality and kindness, and we embrace different tastes and perspectives together.
You mentioned having a deep connection with Paris. What draws you to the city?
I have a very close relationship with Paris. Some people don’t like it, but I absolutely love it. Growing up in La Rochelle, those who moved to Paris to live and work were seen as the ones who had succeeded. For me, it’s the most beautiful city for working. There’s something magical about creating here. I don’t have much free time in the city—my day is tightly scheduled—but I enjoy small moments, like being on the metro or in my car, listening to music, and watching the city come to life in the mornings.When it comes to food, do you have a favorite dish or dining spot in Paris?
I’m deeply passionate about food, but for me, it’s less about a specific dish and more about the ingredients and the quality of the produce. When I have time off, we usually cook at home, but I do enjoy dining out too. One of my favorite places is Pouliche, run by Amandine Chaignot, whom I had the pleasure of working with. I also love L'Accolade in the 15th arrondissement, where I live. And, honestly, I have a soft spot for Parisian brasseries—they have such a timeless charm.
Your work clearly resonates with people. What do you think makes your pastry stand out? What does it take to earn the title of best pastry chef in the world?
I think it’s the attention to detail. People can sense the pleasure we put into making our creations. For me, that’s the most important thing—taking pleasure in what we do, passing that on to the team, and ultimately to our customers. It’s about giving people an experience, a moment of happiness, and making sure that every part of what we create reflects that joy.
The pâtisserie scene has evolved significantly in recent years. What changes have you noticed?
There’s been an incredible shift in the pâtisserie scene lately, with more excellent bakeries and pastry shops opening. Viennoiseries especially are having a real moment. People are paying more attention to quality and creativity, and they’re willing to pay for it, which is wonderful. There’s also been a rise in women bakers—something that wasn’t common when I started. Today, no one would bat an eyelid at a woman running a bakery or pâtisserie, which is a huge step forward for the industry.If you ever left France, what would you miss the most?
Oh, without a doubt, I would miss the bread, butter, and cheese. There’s nothing like it elsewhere. It’s such an integral part of life here.
If you hadn’t become a master pastry chef, what other career paths might you have pursued?
I think I would have been a pizzaiolo or a florist—something that involves bringing people pleasure through what you create. That’s always been at the core of what I do, whether it’s through food or something else entirely. The goal is always to give people joy.
You’ve achieved so much already—what’s next for you?
Right now, I’m focused on expanding Delicatesserie with our two bakeries. Beyond that, I’m always experimenting—whether it's perfecting my feuilletage or coming up with new creations. I love pushing boundaries, so who knows what the next adventure will be. For me, it’s always about evolving and continuing to share that pleasure with others through my work.
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Hero image: Nina Metayer in her lab kitchen © Mathieu Salomé
