When my fellow Inspectors and I awarded One MICHELIN Star to Plates London, it felt like a momentous moment. As plant-based cooking has continued to evolve and develop over the last decade, it’s about time a vegan restaurant came along that could be counted among the country’s culinary elite. What’s important to remember, though, is that Plates is not just ‘the vegan Star’ – it is a Star full stop. An inventive, adventurous and superbly executed dining experience from Chef-Owner Kirk Haworth and his team, my visit showed Plates to be fully deserving of its new Star status.
The Perfect Setting
As I made my way to Plates, I was struck by how suited it is to its location. Just a short walk from Old Street station, it sits on the edge of Shoreditch, a hipster-haven neighbourhood that feels like a fitting home for the city’s first vegan Star. My fellow Inspector and I approached the restaurant through a small courtyard, and as soon as we entered were greeted by a warmth emanating from both the team and the décor. The neutral walls and dark wood furnishings had a natural, earthy quality, while the dining room was small but not cramped. This meant there was a good buzz rattling around the room, but the experience never felt hectic.
The Perfect Balance
As it turned out, the warm welcome we received on arrival was an indicator of the attentive, affable service we would experience for the rest of our visit. The team at Plates have a knack for seeming fully relaxed yet being constantly efficient and switched-on. They are friendly, personable and slick, allowing the experience to unfold as smoothly as possible. During this particular visit, we were sat at the counter so had the opportunity to engage with the chefs, including Kirk Haworth himself. He is clearly passionate about what he’s doing here; as someone who’s going to eat plant-based food for the rest of his life, he’s on a mission to make sure it’s as delicious as possible.
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The Perfect Plates
One thing’s for certain: Plates London has raised the bar for plant-based cooking in this country. But whether the dishes are vegan or not, what matters to us as Inspectors is how they taste. There were a number of things that impressed me about the cooking here, but the one that struck me most was the strong culinary technique underpinning all the dishes. Kirk Haworth is a classically trained chef, and you can see that in his impeccably made sauces; what’s most interesting is how he has adapted this to plant-based ingredients in such a clever way. What’s more, the depth and balance of the dishes was superb; each one came with layers of flavour and texture that all worked together in brilliant harmony. Together they formed a tasting menu, which for me had a few distinct highlights.
House Laminated Sourdough Bread, Whipped Butter, Fermented Redcurrant, Winter Spices
This glistening golden roll was warm and flaky, almost like a croissant in texture with its lovely crisp exterior and soft, slightly sweet interior. The butter served with this signature bread is often infused with spirulina, but during our visit we were treated to a seasonal variation. The cashew-based butter was enhanced by warming spices and sharp redcurrants to cut through the richness.
Barbecued Maitake Mushroom, Black Bean Mole, Kimchi, Aioli and Puffed Rice
After several Inspector visits to Plates, every one of us came out singing the praises of this exceptional mushroom dish. The maitake had a delicious natural flavour, earthy and with a buttery texture. Elevating the dish was a superb mole, which had outstanding depth of flavour and was topped with a subtly spiced fine kimchi and a sprinkling of puffed rice. The way each layer of flavour and texture married together here was a prime example of everything this kitchen is great at.Rice Pudding Ice Cream, Chewy Beets and Mulberries
One of three desserts when we visited, this was a fitting introduction to the sweeter courses. Again, it was supremely well-balanced, with the sweetness of the smooth rice pudding ice cream contrasted by the acidity of the mulberries and tangy beetroot jam. Chewy beets and shards of toasted rice flakes ensured this was another course where the textures were just as interesting as the flavours.
Raw Cacao Gateaux, Sour Cherry, Coconut Blossom Ice Cream, African Pepper, Toasted Macadamia and Raw Caramel
A smooth ring of beautifully textured chocolate sponge was layered with light chocolate mousse, encased in a crisp chocolate shell and dusted with cacao powder. The compote of sour cherries provided a balancing sour hit, while the coconut blossom ice cream was incredibly smooth and again complemented the cacao so well. A few crunchy macadamia pieces added another texture, a dash of pepper brought a welcome warmth and the drizzle of raw caramel sauce was the perfect final touch – thick and rich, with just the right amount of sweetness.Final Thoughts
Since it opened, Plates London has been permanently packed – and not just with vegans. The restaurant is full of curious and discerning diners, who are here not because of their diets but because they’ve heard it’s one of the most exciting new restaurants around. Yes, this is a groundbreaking, unique establishment within the UK’s dining scene. But more than that, it’s just a wonderful restaurant with MICHELIN-Star cooking that could convince the most committed of carnivores.Related Articles:
Hero Image: A strikingly colourful dish from Plates London, the UK's first vegan MICHELIN-Star restaurant. © Safia Shakarchi
