The name is a clue as to this intimate restaurant’s focus, as well as to its sustainable ethos. Tucked down a narrow cobbled-street in York's pretty city centre, not far from the famous Shambles, its menu focuses on fish from small boats, meats reared putting husbandry first and game from local shoots. All parts of the ingredients are used too, so that the constantly evolving blackboard menu produces little waste. The self-taught chef's cooking has an ambitious edge, with dishes proving to be fresh and vibrant. The friendly team add to the appeal.